Raising a glass of something bubbly is timeless. The act is innately celebratory, hopeful and a little nostalgic, and the bubbles themselves can take many forms: tiny and flashy, racing to the glass’s surface; big and bouncing across the tongue; delicate and softly sparkling.

They can come from time-honored pours of Champagne or another sparkling wine, one that is tart with acid, floral and honeyed, or simply flitting along, carrying the idea of sweetness. Or they can be from bubbling cocktails, less in step with strict holiday tradition but no less merrily effervescent.

The fizz is one such cocktail that feels festive and far from the Champagne flute. A 19th-century classic, it has a simple template: Citrus, spirit, sweetener and seltzer — with the optional addition of an egg white, which helps trap air and form bubbles when shaken. It’s that egg white that gives the tart, gin-forward Midnight Fizz a spectacularly frothy head; a final splash of soda water makes it even more, well, fizzy.

Midnight Fizz

Ingredients:

• 2 ounces dry gin

• 3/4 ounce fresh lime juice

• 1/2 ounce simple syrup

• 1/2 ounce orange liqueur, such as Cointreau

• 1 egg white

• Ice

• Soda water, chilled

Directions:

In a shaker, combine the gin, lime juice, simple syrup, orange liqueur and egg white. Cover and shake vigorously for 10 seconds. Add ice to the shaker, cover again and shake vigorously until chilled and well frothed, about 10-15 seconds more.

Double-strain into a small Collins or fizz glass without ice and top with soda water. Serve immediately.

Makes 1 drink.

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