Eleven months out of the year, I make what would be considered an above average, but not excessive, number of cookies.

But come December, when I pretend my baking obsession is just an expression of seasonal glee, I give myself free rein. Around the holidays, I can legitimize a baking frenzy that, in June, would seem like the flour-dusted ravings of a gingerbread maniac.

While eating the cookies is part of the appeal, so is giving them away, packed by the dozen into boxes. Off they go, to friends, neighbors, teachers, mail carriers — the list is as long as the shortbreads are buttery.

And, pandemic be darned, I plan to continue the tradition this holiday season. I can still deliver cookie boxes at a safe distance to my loved ones, a tangible way to spread joy when we need it more than ever.

I’ve kept a cookie log over the last two decades, noting substitutions, successes and the occasional cookie- box failure. My goal is always to create visually a stunning box with a balance of flavors and textures that tastes even better than it looks.

My tips for pulling it off:

>> More is more. I believe in offering a wide assortment. Being enthusiastic, I strive for eight kinds, but three or four is enough to create the thrill.

>> Every box needs a fruity, jammy note. Jam-filled cookies like thumbprints are sturdy and pretty, and the moisture in the jam keeps them soft for a few weeks. Plus, their chewy fruitiness adds a dimension of flavor and texture.

>> Something sparkly and colorful is a must. Put these on the top to dazzle when the lid comes off. Think cookies festooned with sprinkles. Flat, plain cookies like shortbread can rest on the bottom.

>> Include something with crunch. Either a shortbread, or something nutty, like classic snowballs dusted with lots of powdered sugar, will round out the textures. Plus, crunchy cookies are perfect for dunking, which is a necessary cookie-box pastime.

>> A chocolate moment is non­negotiable. Brownies are some of the easiest cookies to make, and possibly the most beloved chocolate option. But other choices, such as truffles, will also get you there. And if you can’t make up your mind, no one will be sad to find two different chocolate cookies cozied up in one box.

>> Pack something for the grown-ups. Bourbon balls, rum balls, brandy snaps, even mini fruitcakes are perfect for the holidays, and the alcohol helps preserve them, so they keep for weeks. Just warn your friends that some of the cookies in the box may not be kid-appropriate — which will also guarantee there will be something left over for the adults.

Boozy cookies are my particular favorites to have on hand when all the flour has been wiped off the counters and the sugar has been mopped from the floor. That’s when I can relax with a glass of bourbon and a bourbon ball, savoring the fruits of another excellent cookie extravaganza — while already planning the next one.

HONEY-ROASTED PEANUT THUMBPRINTS

• 1-2/3 cups (230 grams) chopped honey-roasted peanuts, divided
• 2 cups (250 grams) all-purpose flour
• 1/2 cup (110 grams) dark brown sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
• 1 cup (225 grams) unsalted cold butter (2 sticks), cut into 1-inch cubes
• 2 large eggs, separated
• 1 tablespoon vanilla extract
• 1-1/2 teaspoons lemon or orange zest
• 2/3 cup (95 grams) chopped salted, roasted peanuts (or use more honey-roasted peanuts)
• About 1/2 cup (160 grams) Concord grape jam (or other thick jam)

Heat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly grease 3 baking sheets or line with parchment.

In bowl of a food processor, pulse together 1 cup peanuts and 1/2 cup flour until nuts are coarsely ground. Pulse in remaining flour, sugar, salt and nutmeg, then add butter and pulse until mixture is crumbly.

Pulse in egg yolks, vanilla extract and zest. Pulse until dough is well combined and starts to clump (but doesn’t form a ball).

Working with 1 tablespoon of dough at a time, form into 1-inch balls.

In shallow bowl, beat egg whites lightly with a fork until frothy. Put remaining 2/3 cup chopped honey- roasted peanuts in another bowl; stir in salted, roasted peanuts.

Dunk each ball of dough first in egg whites, then in nuts, rolling to coat well. Place on the baking sheets 2 inches apart. Using thumb, press an indentation in center of each round of dough. Use a small spoon to fill indentations with jam. Bake until edges are just golden, 12 to 18 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack to cool. Makes about 3 dozen cookies.

FUDGY BOURBON BALLS

• 2-1/2 cups (280 grams) chocolate cookie crumbs (such as Nabisco’s Famous Chocolate Wafers or chocolate graham crackers)
• 1-1/4 cups (125 grams) pecans, whole, halved or pieces
• 1/2 cup good bourbon
• 1 cup (120 grams) powdered sugar, plus more for rolling
• 3 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder
• 1 tablespoon honey

In food processor, pulse together cookie crumbs and pecans until nuts are finely ground. (The crumbs keep nuts from turning into nut butter.)

In a bowl, stir together bourbon, 1 cup powdered sugar, cocoa powder and honey. Add mixture to food processor and pulse until just combined.

Let dough rest overnight, uncovered and at room temperature. This allows the mixture to dry out a little.

Roll dough into balls about 1 inch in diameter, then toss balls in powdered sugar. Store in an airtight container to keep moist, or uncovered if you’d like them to develop a crunchy sugar crust. Sprinkle with more powdered sugar just before serving. Makes 4 dozen balls.

VANILLA BEAN SPRITZ COOKIES

• 1 cup (225 grams) unsalted butter (2 sticks), softened
• 1/2 cup (100 grams) sugar
• 1/4 cup (55 grams) light brown sugar
• 1 large egg, at room temperature
• 1 tablespoon vanilla extract
• 1 teaspoon grated lemon or orange zest, 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon or 1/2 teaspoon almond extract (optional)
• 2-1/4 cups (290 grams) all-purpose flour
• 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
• Decorative sugar, for sprinkling

Heat oven to 350 degrees. Beat butter and sugars on medium speed until light and fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes. Add egg, vanilla and zest, spices or almond extract (if using); mix until smooth.

Reduce speed to low; gradually add flour and salt until just incorporated.

Load dough into a cookie press. Following directions that came with your press (models can vary), push dough onto ungreased baking sheets, leaving about 1 inch between cookies. Sprinkle with decorative sugar.

Bake until firm to touch and golden brown at edges, 12 to 17 minutes. Transfer to wire rack to cool completely. Makes 4 dozen.

CORNMEAL LIME SHORTBREAD FANS

• 2 limes, divided
• 1-1/2 cups (190 grams) all-purpose flour
• 2/3 cup (60 grams) fine cornmeal
• 2/3 cup (130 grams) sugar
• 1 teaspoon fine sea salt
• 1 cup (225 grams) cold, unsalted butter (2 sticks), cut into 1-inch chunks
• 1/2 cup (60 grams) powdered sugar

Heat oven to 325 degrees. Grate 1 teaspoon zest from 1 lime (add a little from second lime if needed).

In a food processor, combine zest, flour, cornmeal, sugar and salt; pulse once or twice to combine. Add butter; pulse until mixture resembles fine crumbs. Pulse a few more times until crumbs just start to come together, but don’t overprocess. It should be somewhat crumbly and not form a ball. (Alternatively, mix dough in a bowl using two knives, or use a pastry cutter.)

Press dough into an even layer in an ungreased, fluted 9-inch tart pan with a removable bottom, or in a 9-inch pie pan. Prick dough all over with a fork. Bake until golden brown, about 40 to 50 minutes.

Transfer to a wire rack to cool. Using a butter knife, cut into 12 wedges while still warm.

>> To make glaze: Halve zested lime and squeeze 1 tablespoon juice into a small bowl. Whisk in powdered sugar and, if you like, more lime juice to taste. (More juice makes glaze thinner and more tart; less yields a thicker, sweeter glaze.) Drizzle glaze over cooled shortbread, then zest second lime over icing before it sets. Makes 1 dozen cookies.

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