It’s not every day that you see a sushi omakase that’s under $100. That was one of the first things I noticed at the media event at TORO, which officially opened in December. While the restaurant discloses its location on its website, being off the beaten path is part of this hidden gem’s allure.
TORO — which translates to “melt in your mouth” in Japanese — is run by chef Akio Kino (formerly of Nobu Honolulu) and owner/executive celebrity chef Andrew Stone, whose catering business includes a list of celebrity clients. The restaurant can seat up to 10 people (currently, two seatings at 5 p.m. and 8 p.m. are available; reservations are required) and features Edomae sushi with modern flair. Fish is sourced both locally and from Tokyo’s renowned Toyosu Market.
Before arriving, you have to choose an omakase price: $89, $125, $149 or $250. Kino says the $149 course — which includes three appetizers, 11 seasonal creations and miso soup — tends to be the most popular. The $250 experience definitely warrants a special occasion (at least, to me), as it’s the pinnacle of indulgence with a blend of appetizers, 17 seasonal creations and premium additions like caviar, uni, foie gras, wagyu and truffle. All members of the group must choose the same menu.
At the time I wrote this, it was still early in the new year, so my friend and I opted for the $89 omakase, so as not to overindulge. But I was also curious to see what the most affordable experience entailed, since it was sure to appeal to foodies on a budget or first-timers.
This dining experience included two appetizers, seven nigiri, one roll and miso soup. Menus change slightly each week, depending on fish availability, but courses will usually include staples like hamachi, ahi, salmon and toro.
Our appetizers included warm kabocha soup with kusshi oyster and baby croutons on top, followed by local ahi tuna sashimi with ponzu sauce. The creamy, comforting kabocha soup was like a warm hug (especially with the cooler weather), and the mini croutons added a nice crunch. The sashimi was extra refreshing, thanks to the ponzu. We were off to a good start.
Next came a nigiri trio of saba, hamachi with yuzu and zuke maguro. I love ahi, so I ate the maguro first, in one bite. I didn’t expect the wasabi under the fish to be so strong, and my eyes instantly watered. (That could just be me, though, as I use minimal wasabi when eating sushi. My husband is a wasabi lover and probably would think nothing of this bite.) After that, I approached the hamachi and saba with caution, but both didn’t have a strong wasabi flavor. Of the three, the hamachi with yuzu was my favorite.
After that came a nigiri duo of red snapper with bonito flakes and Hokkaido scallop with wasabi. Scallops are my favorite — especially the Hokkaido ones — and this one’s tender texture didn’t disappoint.
Next was the highlight of this omakase: bluefin otoro and wagyu with teriyaki glaze. The presentation was fun; Kino torched the meat in front of us before preparing the nigiri. The wagyu was cooked well — not overdone — and the teriyaki glaze added a nice sweetness. The otoro was my favorite bite — a nice, fatty piece, resulting in a buttery texture.
The course concluded with piping hot miso soup, a California hand roll — the wasabi is strong in this one — and kiwi cream for dessert.
Of everything, the dessert course was my least favorite, but that’s because I prefer chocolate over fruits for a finale (but I know the omakases tend to end with fruits for something light and refreshing).
All in all, we were satisfied. We got what we paid for, and we were the right degree of full after the meal — content, not uncomfortably stuffed. It was a good “value” option, since it came out to about $100 with tip.
I can see, though, how someone with a larger appetite would still be hungry after this experience.
Stay tuned: The restaurant’s grand opening is sometime this month. It just depends when their liquor license comes in (currently, it’s BYOB with a $15 corkage fee per bottle).
TORO
Address
1130 N. Nimitz Hwy. Ste. C-130, Honolulu
Hours
Two seatings at 5 and 8 p.m. Wednesdays-Saturdays
Website
torohonolulu.com (book reservations via Resy)
Instagram
@toro.honolulu
(If the omakase is full, the seating is really tight)
Parking: Free parking in Nimitz Center
