Salmon teriyaki is a classic for many reasons, most notably because it is crisp and tender, sweet and savory all at once. This quick, single-skillet rendition cooks the salmon most of the way on its skin so that the flesh is tender and the skin is shattery-crisp. In the last few minutes, the fish is glossed in teriyaki sauce. (The “teri” in teriyaki means “gloss” or “luster.”) You could add a smidgen of chopped Thai chiles or grated garlic or ginger to the sauce if you like, or just embrace the allure of its sweet saltiness.

Salmon Teriyaki

Ingredients:

• 4 (4to 6-ounce) skin-on salmon fillets, patted dry

• Salt

• 1 teaspoon neutral oil, such as canola or grapeseed

• 2 tablespoons soy sauce

• 2 tablespoons mirin

• 2 tablespoons sake • 4 teaspoons dark brown sugar

Directions:

Season the salmon flesh lightly with salt, then coat the skin with oil. Place the salmon skin-side down in a large (12-inch) nonstick skillet. Turn the heat to medium and cook until the salmon is opaque halfway up the sides, 10 to 14 minutes. From time to time, press the salmon down with a spatula to help the skin make contact with the pan.

Meanwhile, in a small bowl, stir together the soy sauce, mirin, sake and dark brown sugar.

Reduce the heat to low, flip the salmon and pour the sauce into the skillet, making sure to get the sugar in the bottom of the bowl. Let the sauce simmer until it starts to thicken, about 1 minute. Continue to simmer and occasionally spoon the sauce over the salmon until the salm on is cooked through and the sauce is foamy and glazy, 1 to 3 more minutes. If the salmon is done before the sauce has thickened, transfer the salmon to a plate and continue to simmer the sauce until it resembles maple syrup. Pour the sauce over the salmon.

Total time: 20 minutes, serves 4.