Freshly cooked beets, though they take a while to prepare (see Tip below), are so delicious that they’re worth the effort. Cook them the day before you need them and keep them in the fridge for up to a week, to use in salads or for a soup. For this borscht-inspired soup, a splash of vinegar tempers the beets’ natural sweetness, which is perfectly complemented by a splash of tart herby yogurt. The good news is this soup may be served warm or chilled; each way is refreshing.

Beet Soup with Tarragon, Chives and Yogurt

Ingredients:

• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 medium onion, diced
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 1/2 pounds cooked, peeled red beets, chopped (see Tip below)
• Salt and pepper
• Pinch of ground cayenne
• 1/4 cup red-wine or apple cider vinegar, plus more to taste
• 8 cups water or broth
• 1 cup whole-milk yogurt
• 3 tablespoons chopped tarragon leaves
• 2 tablespoons thinly sliced chives

Directions:

Put olive oil in a heavy-bottomed soup pot or deep, wide skillet over medium heat. Add onion and garlic, cook slowly, stirring, until softened, about 10 minutes.

Add beets and season generously with salt and pepper. Add a pinch of cayenne and pour in vinegar. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, then add water and raise heat to a brisk simmer. Taste broth and adjust. Cook for another 10 minutes, until beets are completely soft.

Purée in a blender, in batches if necessary, and strain through a fine-mesh sieve. (Consistency should be like heavy cream, no thicker – thin with water or broth as necessary). Return puréed soup to pot and reheat. In a small bowl, combine yogurt with tarragon and chives. Add a good pinch of salt and beat with a fork to loosen yogurt.

Taste soup, and adjust for salt and vinegar. Ladle into individual bowls. Swirl a large (2-3 tablespoons) spoonful of herbed yogurt across the surface of the soup.

Total time: 40 minutes, plus time for cooking beets, serves 6-8.

Tip:

To cook beets, cut off the greens and reserve for another use. Wash beets well, put them in a low baking dish and add 1 inch of water. Put on a tightly fitting lid or wrap tightly with foil. Bake at 350 degrees until they are fork tender, about 1 hour 15 minutes. While beets are still warm, slide off the tough “skin” with the aid of a kitchen towel. Refrigerate cooked beets for up to 1 week.

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