Noodles dressed with sesame are popular in many parts of China, but this particular style, made with peanut butter and served cold, became a Chinese American staple in the United States in the 1970s. The family of Shorty Tang — an ambitious restaurateur who emigrated from Sichuan to Taipei to New York — firmly believes that he invented the dish and still serve it at Hwa Yuan, the restaurant he opened in 1967 in Manhattan’s Chinatown. They have never divulged the exact recipe; this is our own lush but refreshing version.

Takeout-Style Sesame Noodles

Ingredients:

• 1 pound noodles, frozen or (preferably) fresh

• 2 tablespoons sesame oil, plus a splash

• 3 1/2 tablespoons soy sauce

• 2 tablespoons Chinese rice vinegar

• 2 tablespoons Chinese sesame paste

• 1 tablespoon smooth peanut butter

• 1 tablespoon sugar

• 1 tablespoon finely grated ginger

• 2 teaspoons minced garlic

• 2 teaspoons chile-garlic paste, chile crisp or chile oil, or to taste

• Half a cucumber, peeled, seeded and cut into 1/8-inch by 1/8-inch by 2-inch sticks

• 1/4 cup chopped roasted peanuts

Directions:

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add noodles and cook until barely tender, about 5 minutes. They should retain a hint of chewiness. Drain, rinse with cold water, drain again and toss with a splash of sesame oil.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the remaining 2 tablespoons sesame oil, the soy sauce, rice vinegar, sesame paste, peanut butter, sugar, ginger, garlic and chili-garlic paste.

Pour the sauce over the noodles and toss. Transfer to a serving bowl, and garnish with cucumber and peanuts.

Total time: 10 minutes, serves 4.

Tips:

The Chinese sesame paste called for here is made of toasted sesame seeds; it is not the same as tahini, the Middle Eastern paste made of plain, untoasted sesame. But you could use tahini in a pinch. You need only add a little toasted sesame oil to compensate for flavor and perhaps some peanut butter to keep the sauce emulsified.

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