Savory, curry-spiced squash soup

Sweet, savory and full of flavor, this easy weeknight noodle soup takes a cue from the warmly comforting northern Thai dish khao soi, with a curry-spiced coconut broth and toppings that offer crunch and contrast. First, the butternut squash is simmered in the fragrant broth until very tender. Then the squash is mashed, becoming one with the coconut milk before stock and sweet and savory seasonings are added (to keep the soup vegetarian, use soy sauce instead of fish sauce). You can use any type of egg noodles here, from wide dried egg noodles to flat fresh egg noodles (sometimes labeled as wonton noodles). Ladle the flavorful squash broth over the noodles and garnish with as much garnish as your heart and stomach desires. Those toppings can be — but are not limited to — a lot of lime juice to cut the richness, cilantro, sliced fresh shallots, crispy shallots, fried noodles, chile oil or pickled mustard greens.

Creamy Butternut Squash and Coconut Noodle Soup

Ingredients:
• 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 1 to 1 1/4 pounds peeled
butternut squash, cut into
1-inch chunks
• Salt
• 2 tablespoons red or yellow
curry paste
• 1 (3-inch) piece ginger, grated
(about 3 tablespoons)
• 1 teaspoon ground turmeric
• 2 (13-ounce) cans full-fat
coconut milk
• 2 to 3 cups vegetable or
chicken stock
• 2 teaspoons fish sauce or 1
tablespoon soy sauce
• 2 tablespoons brown sugar
• 8 ounces fresh or dried egg
noodles (wide or thin)
• Lime wedges, cilantro, thinly
sliced shallots and chile oil, for
serving

Directions:
Bring a pot of water to a boil for the noodles. Meanwhile, in a large pot or Dutch oven, heat the vegetable oil over medium-high. Add the squash, season with salt and cook, stirring occasionally until slightly softened and lightly golden in spots, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in the curry paste, ginger and turmeric. Cook, stirring often, until very fragrant, about 1 minute, lowering the heat if necessary to keep from scorching.

Add the coconut milk and bring to a simmer. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until squash is tender enough to mash, 10 to 12 minutes. Uncover and use a wooden spoon or potato masher to crush the squash into small pieces. Add 2 cups of the stock, fish sauce and brown sugar. Bring to a boil, then turn the heat off. Add more stock for a brothier soup. Season with salt and adjust other seasonings to taste.

While the squash simmers, cook the noodles per the package directions.

To serve, divide the noodles into bowls, ladle the soup over, very generously squeeze lime over, and top with cilantro, shallots and chile oil.

Total time: 35 minutes, serves 4.

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