This warming lamb stew is good any time of year, but especially great in winter. Best of all, it can be prepared well in advance, even a day before serving, and reheats beautifully. You can ask a butcher to cut the lamb shoulder into cubes; there will be less waste, but avoid precut lamb stew meat, which is made from leg and often too lean.

Lamb Stew With Rosemary and Olives
Subhead:
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, more if needed
• 1 large onion, diced
• 3 pounds boneless lamb shoulder, cut into 1-inch cubes
• Salt and pepper
• 1 teaspoon crushed fennel seeds
• 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 2 tablespoons tomato paste
• 2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary, plus a sprig for the pot
• 2 large garlic cloves, minced
• Large pinch of crushed red pepper
• Pinch of cayenne powder
• 1/2 cup dry red or white wine
• 5 cups chicken broth, vegetable broth or water
• 6 medium carrots, peeled, in 3-inch chunks
• 3/4 cup pitted green olives, such as Castelvetrano, halved lengthwise
• 1/2 cup roughly chopped parsley

Directions:
Put olive oil in a Dutch oven or wide, deep skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil shimmers, add onion and cook, stirring, until softened and lightly browned, 5 to 8 minutes. Transfer the onions to a bowl and set aside.

Meanwhile, season lamb chunks generously with salt and pepper, then sprinkle with crushed fennel. Add more oil to the pot and lightly brown lamb over medium-high heat, working in batches, about 10 minutes total. Don’t crowd the pot or the meat will steam, not sear. Return all meat to the pot, sprinkle flour over and stir well to coat.

Add browned onion, tomato paste, all the rosemary, garlic, red pepper and cayenne, and stir to combine well. Add wine and broth and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a brisk simmer, cover pot with lid ajar and cook for 30 minutes. Add carrots and olives, and cook for 30 minutes more, or until lamb is fork-tender. Turn off heat. Skim fat from surface, then let stew rest for an hour at room temperature or refrigerate overnight.

To serve, reheat stew. Taste broth and adjust seasoning. Stir in parsley, then spoon into wide shallow bowls or rimmed dinner plates.

Total time: 1 3/4 hours, serves 4-6.

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