Sitting just steps away from Waikiki Beach with scenic views of Diamond Head while at Azure Restaurant, I could almost pretend I was on vacation at The Royal Hawaiian, a Luxury Collection Resort.
“When was the last time we enjoyed a sunset view like this?” my husband asked.
The last time I had been to Azure Restaurant was before the pandemic, so it was exciting to return to try the eatery’s revamped menu.
Known for its oceanfront views and gorgeous Spanish-Moorish architecture, the fine dining establishment now offers a five-course tasting menu ($145 per person; additional $55 for wine pairings) created by chef de cuisine Jose Reyes. For this menu, Reyes, who joined the culinary team at The Royal Hawaiian earlier this year, emphasized farm-to-table dishes with locally sourced ingredients.
Usually, tasting menus offer some relief for me, as I can be indecisive when ordering. However, choosing a dish for each course proved to be challenging because they all sounded good.
The dinner began with a choice of Caesar salad or Portabello and Nopales (with tomato, arugula, feta cheese and pumpkin seeds). Caesar salad might seem run of the mill, but this version was unique because of its presentation — it looked like a mini plant — and strong anchovy dressing.
The second course featured aged Hamakua mushroom with Kona heart of palm and pine nuts; ahi tiradito Nikkei (cilantro, sesame seeds and smoked cucumber); or a trio of seafood. The latter would please any shellfish fanatic, as it comprised uni, king crab and abalone in a wasabi panna cotta. While the wasabi panna cotta got progressively hotter the more I ate, it was still one of my favorites from the evening, thanks to the indulgent uni and supplemental caviar (an additional $20).
Green soup (tomatillo, zucchini, queso fresco and roasted corn), tako, or tomato and amaebi were featured in the third course.
The sake Spanish octopus was on the chewier side, but the brava sauce it came in was flavorful. My husband raved about the tomato and amaebi — served with ikura and creme fraiche — and likened it to a refreshing seafood bisque.
While the course menu offers a variety of options, ask about the featured specials. We opted for the Goosepoint oysters (three for $23) and featured pasta. The pasta special changes weekly and can replace the third course option for an additional $15.
During our visit, we tried the housemade beet and spinach pasta with white truffles, uni and caviar. The noodles had a perfect chew, and I was thankful for the petite portion — though it was delicious, its luxe toppings made it extremely indulgent.
I had the hardest time picking a dish for the fourth course. Choices included beef (barley-aged steak, potato au gratin, onion-foie gras jus), fish (opakapaka, seafood farce, saffronveloute), lamb (with polenta, pipian sauce, macadamia nuts and miso), lobster (corn and Swiss chard creme), and mole poblano (potato confit, mushrooms, pickled corn, feta cheese, baby carrot).
I ended up with the opakapaka, which featured a shellfish stuffing, and ordered a lobster tail (additional $25) to enjoy the best of both worlds. The opakapaka was moist and flaky, and the savory stuffing was delightful.
My husband vouched for the tender-but-not-gamey lamb, which came with miso and mac nut crust, along with white corn polenta.
The dessert course featured a choice of cajeta mousse (almond chile cake, popcorn creme anglaise and goat caramel mousse); and a sundae with ice cream (choice of sake, uni or vanilla), sauce (choice of chocolate sauce or foie gras cream), truffle cotton candy, honey tuille and macadamia nuts. I was intrigued by and slightly apprehensive about the latter — would the uni ice cream with foie gras cream be too salty? — but I had to try it.
I was pleased to discover the uni and foie gras flavors were not overwhelming. The uni was subtle, making this a good option for those who don’t love super-sweet desserts. It was a nice ending to a luxurious meal — and a good reminder to slow down and enjoy the little things like gorgeous sunset.
