When it comes to Stage Restaurant, the first thing I think of are the impeccable desserts, which look like works of art.
However, the eatery’s new menu, which debuted in early September, is full of so many hits that I already can’t wait to return.
I know what you’re thinking: “Isn’t that the super fancy place inside of Honolulu Design Center?”
The restaurant’s interior is as chic as ever, but don’t wait for the next birthday, anniversary or milestone to experience its new menu. The eatery’s previous menu was more traditional, comprising appetizers and main courses like pork chops, lamb chops and 10-ounce New York steaks. The most recent rendition was inspired by chef Ron de Guzman’s travels to Spain.
“The menu is based on the theory of tapas,” de Guzman says. “Hawaii has many types of small plates — tapas, pupu, izakayas and more.
This menu is a reflection of the cuisine — world cuisines from around the globe — that we do at Stage, borrowing flavors and creating new ones, or just doing a good version of the classics. We try to feature as many locally sourced ingredients as possible.”
The menu was overwhelming in the best way possible. It was separated into categories — garden, raw dishes, pintxos (finger-sized appetizers or snacks that originated in northern Spain and are often served on bread) with toasted French baguette, pastas, meats and seafood — and I wanted several dishes from each one.
We started with the fried cauliflower with romesco, red radish, arugula and balsamic reduction ($15), the jumbo scallop sashimi ($20), and the chip and fish ($18).
If you’re choosing only one appetizer, go with the fried cauliflower. It was nice and tender, and this nontraditional version featured tomatoes, onions and bell peppers that were roasted in the oven then pureed. Meanwhile, the delicate scallops boasted a refreshing flavor, thanks to the ponzu, and an umami aftertaste from the smoked trout roe topping. The radishes gave it a nice crunch.
Because I had only skimmed the menu, I was surprised by the last appetizer. This twist on fish and chips featured crispy, fried rice “chips” topped with spicy Kona kampachi, tobiko, furikake, scallions, spicy mayo and ogo. The crunchy chips — which had the spongy-yet-crispy texture of shrimp chips — were a nice juxtaposition to the creamy kampachi; I just wished there was more kampachi, since we had a lot of chips leftover.
Our server recommended the chilled sesame noodles ($17) — which were a refreshing combo of tahini, chile oil, marinated mushrooms, cucumbers, scallions and sesame seeds — but it was the miso pasta ($18) that had me swooning. It was like carbonara’s nuttier cousin, featuring linguine noodles with miso cream, mushrooms, Parmigiano-Reggiano, katsuobushi (bonito flakes), scallions and crispy onions. The pasta had a nice chew — its texture was accentuated by the shiitake mushrooms — and the miso flavor was balanced. It was cheesy enough to satisfy this cheese lover, and the bonito flakes’ smoky flavor was a nice finish.
I was indecisive when it came to entrees, so we went all out — and everything was a winner. The steak “Gougeres” ($23), comprising potato and Gruyere puffs topped with sliced steak, balsamic reduction and truffle essence, was our most unique selection. The steak was on the leaner side, but boasted a robust beefy flavor. The puffs were crispy on the outside with a cloud-like interior.
Seafood fanatics will love the caramelized jumbo scallops ($22), which were served with cauliflower puree, chile oil and chives. The succulent scallops were seared perfectly and the cauliflower puree boasted a texture so similar to mashed potatoes that I almost forgot I was eating veggies.
A friend who recently dined at Stage recommended the fried chicken “Korean style” ($16), so of course, I had to try that, too. It was coated with wasabi mayo, furikake and chile garlic soy sauce. It was nice and crispy — as fried chicken done well should be — with a slightly sweet aftertaste, thanks to the soy.
No dining experience at Stage Restaurant is complete without one of pastry chef Cainan Sabey’s desserts, which taste as good as they look. The masala chai apple crisp ($16) — complete with oatmeal crumble, Tahitian vanilla bean ice cream, salted caramel spice and maple tuile — gave fall vibes, but the burnt tiramisu ($16) was my favorite.
This dessert was more of a tiramisu-creme brulee hybrid, featuring layers of Kona coffee tiramisu chiffon cake, Valrhona milk chocolate creme brulee, dehydrated mousse, Valrhona dark chocolate crunch and hazelnut powder. It sounded rich, but wasn’t overly so, thanks to the dark chocolate.
I also recommend asking about featured flavors of housemade ice creams and sorbets ($6 each), as the selection changes weekly.
I was a huge fan of the peanut butter Oreo ice cream, served with assorted fruits and feuilletine flakes — thin wafers that delivered a satisfying crunch — so much so that, even after telling my husband the huge scoops were more than enough for two people, I proceeded to devour 90% of it by myself.
Stage Restaurant
Address
Inside Honolulu Design Center
1250 Kapiolani Blvd., Honolulu
Phone
808-237-5429
Hours
Open 5-9 p.m. Tuesdays-Saturdays
Website
stagerestauranthawaii.com
Instagram
@stagerestaurant
Price: $ $
Parking: Free parking in the public lot at Honolulu Design Center