Based on East Coast white chowder, made with milk and potatoes, but more of a dinner stew than a soup. Lemon zest and slivers of serrano chile add spark to the mild creamy base. Prepare the chowder up to two hours in advance and reheat it gently just before serving, to avoid any last-minute rushing.

Summer Chowder With Cod and Clams
Ingredients:
• 1 pound cod or other white fish, cut into 2-inch chunks
• Salt and pepper
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 teaspoon chopped dill, plus 3 tablespoons chopped dill for garnish
• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 yellow onion, diced small (about 2 cups)
• 1/2 cup diced celery (2 small ribs)
• 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 6 cups whole milk
• 1 small dried bay leaf
• Pinch of ground cayenne
• 1 1/2 pounds yellow-fleshed potatoes (preferably on the smaller side), peeled and sliced 1/4-inch-thick
• 1 1/2 cups corn kernels (from 2 ears)
• 12 littleneck clams, rinsed
• Zest of 1 lemon
• 1 serrano chile, thinly sliced
• 2 tablespoons thinly sliced chives, for garnish

Directions:
Place fish in a medium bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Add olive oil and 1 teaspoon chopped dill. Toss to coat and set aside.

Melt butter in a large heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add onion and celery, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring, until onions are softened, 5 to 8 minutes. Lower heat as necessary to keep onions from browning.

Over medium-high heat, sprinkle onion-celery mixture with flour and stir to coat well. Add milk 1 cup at a time, stirring frequently to prevent scorching as it thickens, bringing to a simmer between additions, until all 6 cups have been incorporated. (Add more milk as needed to thin. The consistency should be like a thin milkshake.) Add bay leaf and cayenne. Taste and add salt, if necessary.

Lower heat to medium and add potatoes. Cook, stirring frequently, until tender, about 10 minutes.

Add corn and clams, and cook until clams begin to open, about 5 minutes. Add fish, stir well, and adjust heat to maintain a low simmer. Cook for about 10 minutes, until fish is opaque. Stir in lemon zest.

To serve, divide fish and sauce among 6 soup bowls, with 2 clams per bowl. Add a few slivers of serrano chile to each bowl and sprinkle generously with chopped dill and chives.

Total time: 1 hour, serves 6.

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