“I thought you said you were too full for dessert,” I protested, as my husband reached for the last bites of the Brownie Bar.
“I was, but this is really, really good,” he said.
Actually, that’s what we both said about everything we ordered at our recent dinner at Arden Waikiki. I first went to the restaurant when it opened last fall. It had just switched over from the pop-up tbd … Hawaii, and I was one of few diners there.
Not so on that recent Saturday evening with my husband. The restaurant was packed — I think the only tables open were some of the lounge seats and the counter.
Arden, which means “forest,” is helmed by husband-and-wife Makoto Ono and Amanda Cheng. Ono was the executive chef at renowned Vancouver restaurants like PIDGIN and Mak N Ming. Cheng, meanwhile, is known for her exceptional desserts and is one of Canada’s top pastry chefs.
While Arden is located on the second floor of Lotus Honolulu at Diamond Head and offers stunning views of Kapiolani Park, the spacious seating and modern décor makes you feel like you’re in someone’s large, posh dining room.
Since opening, there have been some menu changes, and brand-new cocktails and mocktails are now available — which brings me to my updated dining experience.
We started with the Smoke & Mirrors cocktail ($18), made with mezcal, bourbon, lime, matcha, elderflower foam and cardamom. The smokiness hit immediately and the drink was smooth, with a definitive matcha aftertaste.
I also got the Island Nectar mocktail ($8), a combination of lime, guava, lychee and sparkling grapefruit. The grapefruit flavor was a little strong for my taste, but the beverage was refreshing — not to mention aesthetically pleasing.
For appetizers, we decided on the thick-cut fries with spicy mayo ($9), foie gras terrine ($41), tomatoes with Bocconcino burrata ($29) and Kauai prawn toast ($22).
The thick-cut fries came dusted with furikake, and I recommend upgrading to the mentaiko smoked trout roe dip (an additional $13). It was smoky, creamy and downright addictive. The mentaiko provided a refreshing burst of texture (and visual pop of color), that contrasted nicely with the creamy dip.
Instead of a traditional foie gras spread, Arden’s cheeky presentation — spoiler alert, the foie gras was served in a shape that resembles a stick of butter — featured onion jam, umeshu jelly and Epi-ya pillow toast, so you can create your own open-faced sandwiches.
Throughout the meal, I had to keep reminding myself the “butter” was not butter. It’s an indulgent option any foie gras lover will enjoy.
Ordering burrata was a no-brainer since I love cheese, but this one had a twist in the form of li hing mui vinaigrette. It sounds like an unusual combo, but it worked; the creamy burrata was complemented by the li hing’s bright zing.
When Arden first opened, Kauai prawns were prepared in a more traditional manner, complete with the shrimp heads on. I preferred this updated version, in which the soft, buttery toast from EPI-YA Boulangerie & Patisserie came with ample prawn filling and a flavorful accompaniment of mayo.
We ordered some of the newer dishes for our entrees — steamed kampachi in tobiko beurre blanc ($38) and Prime USDA rib-eye ($70), along with new veggie sides of Hirabara roasted carrots ($10) and roasted Brussels sprouts ($10).
The steak was charcoal grilled, topped with charred Maui sweet onions and served with a rosemary vinaigrette. The meat was tender, and the vinaigrette was like a flavorful chimichurri, but it was the kampachi that had me swooning. It was moist and flaky — not dry at all — and that tobiko beurre blanc was amazing. The fish’s crispy skin was the perfect crunchy topping.
(Note: My husband is always picky about cooked fish — in his former career as a fisherman, he often cooked his own — and this one got his seal of approval).
The carrots were a game changer. The dish included both roasted pieces and thinly sliced pickled carrots, with black sesame paste and dollops of Sweet Land Farm goat cheese. It was surprisingly good (I say surprising because carrots are one of my least-liked vegetables), and I finished most of the dish myself.
Meanwhile, the Brussels sprouts were cooked perfectly — soft, but not mushy — with chile pineapple sauce and thinly sliced Spam.
The dessert menu had two options — Baked “Hawaii” ($16) and Brownie Bar ($16). The former is a local version of the Baked Alaska —a black sesame chiffon cake topped with coconut and mango sorbet, toasted meringue, and a Koloa Dark rum sauce.
While I enjoyed the Baked Hawaii’s refreshing flavors, the Brownie Bar was one of the best desserts I’ve ever had. Yes, I’ve eaten a lot of desserts, but can definitely vouch for this one. It’s a chocolate lover’s dream with a fudgy brownie base, a layer of chocolate mousse, a coating of dark chocolate ganache and dollops of cocoa banana jam served with a side of white miso ice cream. The ice cream was made in-house and its subtle miso flavor provided a nice salty-sweet contrast to the decadent brownie bar.
As we gathered our leftovers, I pleaded with my husband, “I know my birthday just passed, but can we come back again soon?”
Arden Waikiki
Address
Lotus Honolulu at Diamond Head, second floor
2885 Kalakaua Ave., Honolulu
Phone
808-791-5151
Hours
5-9 p.m. Wednesdays-Sundays; closed Mondays and Tuesdays
Website
ardenwaikiki.com
Instagram
@arden_waikiki
Price: $ $ $
Parking: Complimentary valet parking at Lotus Honolulu Hotel