When it comes to steak or seafood, I usually prefer the latter — lobster tail, sashimi, you name it. It’s not that steaks are bad; I just don’t crave red meat.

But the first time I tried the wagyu tenderloin at recently opened Gyu-Masu Steak & Seafood in the Embassy Suites by Hilton Oahu Kapolei, it was love at first bite.
Affordable wagyu sounds like an oxymoron, but at this eatery, it’s a real thing. Restaurant chef/owner Victor Jian’s passion to provide the West Oahu community with high-quality wagyu at reasonable prices led to this new eatery.

Jian was inspired by a visit to Toriyama Umami Wagyu in Japan’s Gunma prefecture. The farm is known for its meticulous care in raising cattle.
“Their wagyu is focused on umami flavor and all the marbling,” Jian says.

Gyu-Masu Steak & Seafood was formerly Takumi Sushi and Bar for the past six years, but Jian decided it was time to change things up.

“We source the wagyu directly from Toriyama Farm,” Jian says. “We use every part of the cow for different purposes. We sell it (wagyu) 40% to 50% lower than the market price since we source it directly; that’s how we are able to pass the savings directly on to the customer.”
Start with appetizers like ahi poke ($14.50), bacon mushroom scallops ($18.50) and sauteed gyoza ($8.75). The succulent scallops topped with bacon bits and tender mushrooms are such a savory, buttery medley.

When it comes to steaks, choose from Japanese wagyu options like striploin (6 ounces, $65.50), brisket (8 ounces, $35.50), tenderloin (6 ounces, $70.50) and short rib (8 ounces, $45.50).

The wagyu tenderloin is the most popular, according to Jian. Of the wagyu we tried, the tenderloin was my favorite. We ordered it at the recommended medium rare (because of the marbling and how fatty it is), and it came with tsukemono and salad on the side. I barely needed a knife to cut it, and the tender meat didn’t take much effort to chew.

The wagyu brisket and short ribs are newer menu items. The short ribs were marinated with yakiniku sauce, while the brisket was marinated in housemade teriyaki sauce. Both were tasty, and the flavors will appeal to local palates.
By the way, don’t expect to find any A1 steak sauce here. Steaks are served with three housemade sauces — wasabi shoyu, lemon citrus and Japanese steak sauce.

“The sauces are all on the lighter side,” Jian says. “They’re supposed to complement the wagyu, not compete with it. We want people to taste and enjoy the wagyu flavor.”

For those who prefer USDA-certified Angus beef, options include New York strip (12 ounces, $34.50), rib-eye (12 ounces, $38.50), filet mignon (8 ounces, $45.50) and porterhouse (16 ounces, $52.50).

While there was nothing wrong with the rib-eye — it was seasoned well and cooked to our liking — I’d encourage you to try one of the wagyu steaks, especially if you never had one before.

Sides like garlic butter corn ($5.50), baked potatoes ($6.50), assorted mushrooms ($9.50) and garlic yakisoba ($10.50) are available a la carte.

On the seafood/poultry side, choose from dishes like 10-ounce lemon butter lobster tails ($35.50), baked salmon ($17.50) and garlic pork chops ($19.50). I loved the miso-baked salmon ($19.50) because of its robust flavor.

The restaurant recently launched a new lunch menu that features wagyu udon ($20.50) and ramen made with Sun Noodle and come with wagyu beef slices, ajitama, seasoned menma, nori, wagyu tallow (fat from the wagyu) and green onions.

The broths are made in house; choose from flavors like miso, spicy, garlic, yuzu kosho and original ($22.50; all other bowls are $23.50). Similar to the meats served at a pho restaurant, the wagyu slices are served raw on the side. They’re designed to cook in the soup, but customers may request to have them served in the soup.

“It took about six months for me to perfect the broth,” Jian says. “With all the marbling from the meat, we cook up the meat and add it into the broth so it actually tastes like wagyu, not just like any ramen.”

The yuzu kosho ramen is unique and features a nice balance of savory and refreshing flavors.

Meanwhile, the wagyu udon comes with tenkasu, green onions, wagyu tallow and shichimi.

Whether you’re there for lunch or dinner, save room for the confections from Ayla’s Patisserie, which has a retail space in the corner of the restaurant. The dessert biz specializes in fluffy, Japanese-style souffle cheesecakes, available whole ($30) or by the slice ($5.50).

They’re lighter — definitely less dense and not as sweet as rich, creamy New York-style cheesecakes — and the perfect treat after an umami wagyu meal.

Kelli Shiroma Braiotta’s column focuses on new restaurants and dining experiences across Hawaii. Follow Kelli on
Instagram (@kellishiromabraiotta).

Gyu-Masu Steak and Seafood

Address 
725 Manawai St., Kapolei

Phone
808-888-0172

Hours
Open daily, 11 a.m.-3 p.m. lunch (last seating at 2:30 p.m.),
5-10:30 p.m. dinner
(last seating 9:30 p.m.)

Website
gyumasuhawaii.com

Instagram
@gyumasukapolei

Parking: Free parking in the Embassy Suites Kapolei parking lot