When the Hawai‘i ‘Ulu Cooperative began selling its frozen ulu (breadfruit) on retail shelves on Oahu in February, the idea of eating local was for many a concept, a matter of values and principles.

Now, after worries during the pandemic that the crisis could threaten our imported food supply, the vital importance of “local” has hit home for many residents. Just ask the multitudes who in the past several months have inundated isle farms with orders for food.

Among local crops, outside of kalo (taro), you’d be hard-pressed to find many foods with deeper cultural roots in Hawaii than ulu. Ulu was in fact a canoe plant, brought to Hawaii by the original Polynesian voyagers.

For all that pedigree, it’s a food surprisingly unfamiliar to many isle residents. This is due in part to ulu’s short seasons, sometimes just a month or two long, that have made it hard to access. Thanks to the work of the Big Island-based co-op, however, this starchy, nutrient-filled, versatile fruit can now be a staple in every household.

The co-op’s parcooked, frozen mature ulu can be steamed and sprinkled with salt or butter, and eaten as is. It can be sliced into thin pieces, then baked into addictive chips. It can be mashed and mixed with beans and cheese for a vegetarian patty, or with meat or fish for a hearty burger.

One of the easiest ways to incorporate ulu into your regular repertoire is to substitute it for imported white potatoes. Mash it and mix it with milk and cheese. Dice and toss it with mayo for a cold salad. Add it to stews and curries. Many agree that ulu’s tinge of sweetness and light floral fragrance enhances the deliciousness of these dishes.

The co-op’s website offers a range of recipes, some of which were developed with the help of Big Island culinary students from Kealakehe High School in Kailua-­Kona. Funded by a grant, students created six dishes that they sampled to about 1,000 of their peers during lunch. Eaters filled out surveys to provide feedback. Favorites include chowder (see recipe on next page), chili and chicken curry.

“What they really learned was how much work goes into product development,” said culinary teacher Karen Sheff. “We have 120 students in the entire program, and 70 participated. They tested six recipes, each one six times.

“The biggest takeaway is that this is a great example of how a nonprofit industry partner can collaborate with the local high school.”

Get on the ulu train now and get familiar with this most local of foods. These recipes will help you get started. For more ideas, visit the co-op’s website at eatbreadfruit.com.

Frozen ulu and more

Find 12-ounce packages (about $8.50 to under $10) of precooked, peeled and cored mature ulu in the freezer sections at Down to Earth locations on Oahu, Kokua Market and via Farm Link Hawaii.

Or, if you have family and friends who want in on the luxury of ulu all year long, consider ordering a case of 12-ounce packages directly from the Hawai‘i ‘Ulu Cooperative. The chilled case of 18 packages ships free statewide. At $107.59 plus tax per case, that breaks down to about $6.25 a bag.

The co-op also sells value-­added ulu products such as hummus and chocolate mousse. Other processed local crops are available as well.

The site now includes large subscription boxes ($84 to $189) filled with a variety of artisan goodies from numerous Big Island producers, including ulu and ulu products, cassava products, sugar cane juice and goat cheese.

Slated for August release are smaller boxes ($25 to $30) to include local starches, indigenous starches, pupu, specialty Big Isle products and a build-your-own box. For updates, go to the co-op’s Facebook or Instagram pages ­at @hawaiiulucoop.

Visit eatbreadfruit.com.

While you’re there, consider supporting the Food Basket, the Big Island’s foodbank, with a $20 purchase of 5 pounds of ulu, sweet potato, kabocha or green papaya that will feed the hungry.

BRIGHT FUTURE AHEAD

The Hawai‘i ‘Ulu Cooperative, a group of 85 farmers with 4,000 ulu trees on the Big Island and Maui, is slated to produce 120,000 pounds of ulu this year.

That’s with just 500 of its trees producing fruit. By 2025, with more keiki trees having matured, the co-op is estimating of yield of 1 million pounds. Given that trees produce fruit for 50 to 60 years, ulu is a sustainable local crop.

“This season has been light, so the co-op has done more experimentation with other crops,” said general manager Dana Shapiro. Now, its storage freezers and shelves are also stocked with frozen kalo, sweet potato, kabocha, green papaya, mango, soursop, white pineapple and dried banana.

The co-op supplies school cafeterias, hospitals, restaurants and retail grocers across the state.

ULU CHOWDER

Kealakehe High School culinary students

• 1 (12-ounce) package defrosted ulu
• 1 teaspoon minced garlic
• 1/8 cup finely chopped onion
• 1 stalk celery, chopped
• 3/4 tablespoon butter
• 1-1/2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 1 cup milk
• 1-1/2 cups chicken stock
• 1 small potato, cubed
• 1/2 cup diced carrot
• 1/3 cup chopped cauliflower
• 1/3 cup diced zucchini
• 12 ounces corn, fresh or canned
• 1-1/2 teaspoons dried parsley
• 1/4 teaspoon paprika
• 1/4 teaspoon chili powder
• Salt and pepper, to taste

Steam ulu 15 minutes; cool. Slice into 1/2-inch cubes. Set aside.

In medium pot, saute garlic, onion and celery in butter until tender, about 5 minutes. Add flour and cook 1 minute, stirring continuously.

In separate small pot, warm milk, then add chicken stock.

Slowly add milk mixture to larger pot, whisking until thickened. Add ulu and potato; simmer 10 minutes. Add carrot, cauliflower, zucchini and corn; simmer another 10 minutes.

If you like, with immersion blender, puree to desired consistency. Stir in parsley, paprika and chili powder; season with salt and pepper to taste. Mix well. If chowder is too thick, add water. Serves 4.

Approximate nutritional information, per serving (not including salt to taste): 250 calories, 5 g fat, 2.5 g saturated fat, 10 mg cholesterol, 650 mg sodium, 48 g carbohydrate, 8 g fiber, 20 g sugar, 7 g protein.

ULU POKE

Chef Mark “Gooch” Noguchi

• 1 cup sesame oil
• 4 cloves garlic, finely grated on microplane grater
• 2 Hawaiian chili peppers
• 2 pounds steamed ulu
• 3 tablespoons inamona (find it at Tamashiro Market)
• 1 tablespoon sea salt
• Sliced green onion, for garnish (optional)

In small pan on low, lightly heat oil, garlic and chilies until oil bubbles a little. (This mellows the garlic.)

Slice ulu into bite-size pieces and place in bowl. Add oil, inamona and salt; toss gently. Taste and add more salt if necessary. Top with green onion if using. Serves 16.

Approximate nutritional information per 1/4 cup serving: 200 calories, 15 g fat, 2 g saturated fat, no cholesterol, 400 mg sodium, 16 g carbohydrate, 3 g fiber, 7 g sugar, 1 g protein.

>> Mochiko Ulu: Another idea from chef Gooch, using steamed ulu chunks. Let ulu cool, then break by hand into pieces and toss in mochiko — the flour will settle into the rough edges. Fry; edges with mochiko will crisp up like chicken skin. Toss in marinade you usually use for mochiko chicken.

Nutritional analysis by Joannie Dobbs, Ph.D., C.N.S.