I am always on the hunt for new and better things to do with my slow cooker. It’s my culinary obsession.

In the ramp-up to Thanksgiving, I shared a way to slow-cook a turkey breast for those who didn’t need a whole bird. For Christmas, I’ve moved on to a spice cake that can be “baked” in your Crock-Pot, emerging with the signature scents of the holiday — cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves — and in a size just right for a small party.

The recipe is from “The Complete Slow Cooker,” a new cookbook from America’s Test Kitchen ($29.95; available at bookstores and online sources). If you’re giving or getting a slow cooker for Christmas, consider this book as a companion. It’s got advice from which one to buy (top marks for the $99 KitchenAid 6-quart model) to how to get the best results once you start cooking.

Slow-cooking can go bad on you, yielding large portions of mushy or dried-out meat in insipid sauces.

Some of the test kitchen’s suggestions:

>> Use the microwave to soften aromatics such as onions and garlic, “bloom” spices and par-cook vegetables. Flavors will build and meld better with this head start.

>> Because liquids don’t evaporate in the closed Crock-Pot environment, reducing and thickening sauces can be a problem. Try stirring in tapioca starch or pureed beans at the start of cooking. Or after cooking, puree the cooking liquid with some cooked beans or vegetables from the pot to make a thicker sauce.

>> Browning meat before adding it to the slow cooker adds to the flavor, but can be bothersome, especially when dealing with lots of pieces for, say, a stew. Try browning just half the meat. You’ll still get the flavor benefits.

On to the cake: It’s a nice bonus to be able to prepare something simple that will cook unattended, while you’re going about the tasks of this busy season.

Applesauce Spice Cake

• 1 cup (5 ounces) flour
• 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• Pinch ground nutmeg
• Pinch ground cloves
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 cup (3-1/2 ounces) sugar
• 1/2 cup unsweetened applesauce
• 1 large egg, room temperature
• 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled
• Powdered sugar, for dusting

Fill slow cooker with 1/2 inch water (about 2 cups) and place a rack in bottom (or make a rack out of a rolled length of foil formed into a ring). Grease 6-inch springform pan and line with baking parchment (see note).

Whisk together flour, baking soda, spices and salt.

In separate large bowl, whisk sugar, applesauce, egg and vanilla until smooth, then slowly whisk in melted butter. Add flour mixture, stirring until just incorporated. Scrape batter into prepared pan; smooth top and tap pan on counter to release air bubbles. Place pan in slow cooker on rack; cover and cook on high 3-4 hours, until a pick inserted in center comes out clean.

Remove and cool on wire rack 10 minutes. Use knife to loosen sides, then remove cake from pan and cool completely on rack, 1-2 hours.

Dust with powdered sugar. Serves 6.

Nutritional information unavailable.

Note: A 6-inch springform pan can be difficult to find. Compleat Kitchen in Kahala Mall does sell them, but as an alternative, use any pan with 3-inch-high sides that will fit in your slow cooker.

Write By Request, Honolulu Star-Advertiser, 7 Waterfront Plaza, Suite 210, Honolulu 96813; or email requests to bshimabukuro@staradvertiser.com.