This time of year, when everyone is either sick or getting sick, I like to make tori nabe — essentially the hot-pot version of chicken soup. Its warm comfort seems even more desireable now. Nabe refers to stews cooked in Japanese ceramic pots called donabe, but you can make them in any soup pot.

By bringing chicken drumsticks and cold water to a boil together, you draw out the richness from the bones for broth and get tender meat for the soup. But the chicken is in a supporting role here — the squash is the star.

Kabocha strikes just the right balance between sweet and starchy. Because its skin is edible (and tasty), I leave it on to help the thin slices stay intact in the bubbling broth, as their earthy orange flesh soaks up savory chickeny flavor.

A few final seasonings make this dish taste more complex: Ponzu delivers a salty and bright citrus tang, daikon a bracing peppery sharpness that mellows in the hot broth, and ginger and togarashi add a little heat.

KABOCHA SQUASH CHICKEN HOT POT (TORI NABE)

• 1 pound chicken drumsticks (about 4)
• 8 cups cold water
• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1/2 small kabocha squash (about 8 ounces)
• 8 regular bok choy
• 1 piece (3 inches) daikon
• 1 piece (2 inches) fresh ginger
• 12 ounces udon noodles
• Shichimi togarashi, for serving
• >> Ponzu sauce:
• 1/3 cup dark or regular soy sauce
• 1 tablespoon rice vinegar
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

Put chicken in a large donabe pot, Dutch oven or saucepan and cover with water. Bring to a boil over high heat. Add salt, then reduce heat to medium-low. Simmer gently for 20 minutes, skimming any foam from the surface.

Meanwhile, make ponzu sauce: Combine soy sauce and vinegar in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Remove from heat and stir in lemon juice. Cool to room temperature; reserve.

Prepare vegetables: Cut squash into 2-inch-wide wedges and discard seeds. Cut each wedge into 1/3-inch-thick slices. Trim bok choy and cut larger leaves in half. Peel daikon and ginger; grate into separate bowls.

Transfer chicken from pot to a plate; keep broth simmering. Add squash to broth; simmer until tender, 8 to 10 minutes.

While squash cooks, cook udon according to package directions.

Discard chicken skin and bones. Pull meat into large pieces and divide among 4 serving bowls along with the udon.

Stir bok choy into simmering soup and cook until just wilted and bright green, about 1 minute. Divide vegetables and broth among bowls; sprinkle with togarashi. Serve with ponzu sauce, seasoning each bowl or spoonful to taste. Serves 4

Nutritional information unavailable.