Salt. A simple mineral essential to life, preservation and seasoning. Saltiness is one of the five basic taste profiles — along with sweetness, sourness, bitterness and umami (savoriness).
Salt in cocktails might sound like a revelation, but if you take a minute to think about how salt affects the foods we eat on a daily basis, it makes perfect sense.
Now, not all salt is created equal. A dash of standard table salt thrown into your vodka and soda is unlikely to produce mind-blowing results. Typical table salt is a manufactured form of sodium called sodium chloride, and is heavily processed, thus losing many of the 80 important naturally occurring benefits found in the sea salts and Himalayan salts that are dried in the sun.
Sea salts are actually alkaline minerals that aid in hydration and provide the body with natural electrolytes. Maldon sea salt is a friend to many chefs, bringing a mild flavor to each dish that it touches … subtle and gentle.
Fleur de sel is also among my favorites — I call it natural MSG for the way that it enhances flavors.
Real salt also has the ability to enhance almost any cocktail, whether toning down the bitterness of Campari liqueur or brightening the fresh citrus in a daiquiri.
NATIONAL NEGRONI Week was June 4-10, but that doesn’t mean that the Negroni party has to end. I have identified two distinct groups when it comes to this cocktail — those who absolutely adore the drink and those who can’t handle its bitter character.
I am of the former group, and also an avid lover of salt. The first time I tried a Negroni with salt added, I was on cloud nine. The salt tempers the Campari ever so slightly and rounds out all the flavors.
The salt in this cocktail is in the form of a saline solution. I know that this sounds very technical, but it is very simple to make and can be used in many cocktails, so it won’t go to waste.
If you are in the Negroni- lovers group I implore you to give this cocktail a try. You will not be disappointed!
CURED NEGRONI
- 1 ounce Campari
- 1 ounce London dry gin (like Beefeater, Bombay Sapphire or Tanqueray)
- 1 ounce high-quality rosso vermouth (like Alessio Vermouth Chinato or Cocchi Storico Vermouth di Torino)
- 1/2 eyedropper saline solution (about 1/2 teaspoon, see note)
Combine all ingredients in mixing glass with ice. Stir and strain into martini or coupe glass.
>> Garnish: Wide grapefruit twist, cut with pinking shears.
>> Note: To make saline solution, combine 80 grams (about 3 ounces) boiling water with 20 grams (about 3 tablespoons) Maldon sea salt. Stir or shake until salt has dissolved. This is called an 80:20 mix. Transfer to eyedropper bottle to dispense.
THIS COCKTAIL is a fun, light, savory twist on a Tom Collins, using a generous pinch of Maldon sea salt to bring out the sweetness in the local tomatoes. Blanc vermouth brings down the alcohol content and plays beautifully with the botanicals in the drink.
It’s a beautiful aperitif style of cocktail that will awaken your palate and move you seamlessly into your wine pairings with dinner.
TOMATO TOM-ATO
- 6 grape tomatoes (mix of golden and grape varieties is nice)
- Generous pinch Maldon sea salt
- 3/4 ounce lemon juice
- 1/2 ounce rich simple syrup (2 parts sugar dissolved in 1 part water)
- 1 ounce blanc or bianco vermouth (like Dolin, Alessio or Martini & Rossi)
- 1 ounce citrus-forward gin (like Plymouth or Aviation)
- Club soda, as needed
Muddle (crush) tomatoes with salt, lemon and simple syrup. Add liquors and ice. Shake and strain over ice into highball glass.
Top with club soda.
>> Garnish: Thin tomato discs floating in glass, rosemary sprig
SALT HAS a way of brightening and softening at the same time. With a citrus-forward cocktail such as a daiquiri, it is the vehicle for balance. (You may not even realize your drink has been out of balance until you try it this way.)
The following is a fancied-up little riff on a daiquiri, given an herbal spin with the addition of Chartreuse liqueur, and an Asian influence with the yuzu and a hint of almond with the orgeat syrup.
SEA SPRAY
- 3/4 ounce lime juice
- 1/2 barspoon (half a teaspoon) yuzu juice
- 3/4 ounce orgeat syrup (like BG Reynolds or Liquid Alchemist)
- 1/2 ounce pasteurized egg whites (optional)
- 1/2 eyedropper saline (80:20 mix, see Negroni recipe)
- 1/2 ounce Yellow Chartreuse
- 1-1/2 ounces white rum (KoHana Hawaiian Agricole Kea preferred)
Combine ingredients in mixing glass with ice. Shake, strain, dry shake (without ice), then fine strain (strain again using a fine-mesh strainer) into martini or coupe glass.
>> Garnish: Wide lime twist, held on with a baby clothespin; 5 drops bitters, decoratively arranged.
THE SALT in this cocktail comes in the form of the ume that is muddled into it. The ume plays two parts, adding salinity and acidity from the pickled plum.
Reposado tequila adds a hint of baking spices that play well with the sweet and soft umeshu, while shiso adds a fresh, herbal character that lifts the entirety.
wThe ume is to this cocktail as li hing is to margaritas — salty, sweet perfection in a glass that keeps you coming back for another sip.
DOOZO
- 1/2 ume (Japanese pickled plum, seed removed)
- 1 shiso leaf (sold in Japanese markets)
- 1 ounce fresh lime juice
- 3/4 ounce rich simple syrup (2 parts sugar dissolved in 1 part water)
- 1/2 ounce umeshu (Japanese liqueur of ume steeped in alcohol and sugar, sold in most liquor stores)
- 1-1/2 ounces reposado tequila (like Fortaleza, Corzo or El Tesoro)
Muddle (crush) ume and shiso with lime and syrup. Add spirits and ice. Shake and fine strain over ice into bucket glass.
>> Garnish: Shiso leaf and ume on bar pick.
Nutritional information unavailable.
Chandra Lucariello is director of mixology for Southern Wine & Spirits. Ingredient note: The liquors and liqueurs used in these recipes are widely available from Oahu liquor stores and some supermarkets.