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Quick-seared fish sizzles, satisfies

NEW YORK TIMES

Halibut with brown butter, lemon and sage, topped with bread crumbs. For moist, juicy results with fish, frying or searing is the best option.

Making a fish dinner at home can be a bit of a splurge, given how expensive fresh seafood is. It would be a shame to overcook your hard-earned haul.

Broiling or grilling can cause lean, white-fleshed fish like halibut (but also snapper, grouper and large sea scallops) to dry out. For moist, juicy results, frying or searing is the best option. I tend to use a simple searing method for cooking firm, white-fleshed fish on the stovetop; it’s easier and cleaner than frying.

For best results, use a cast-iron pan, or any other heavy nonstick pan (even a griddle). Coat the pan with olive oil, and let it get hot before you put in the fish. Leave the fish undisturbed until it is nicely golden on one side, then flip it and cook the second side until just done.

With perfectly pristine fresh fish, you want no sauce at all — or a sauce that enhances without distracting from the fish’s flavor. Sometimes, the best solution is a drizzle of olive oil and a lemon wedge.

For something a bit fancier and not much more effort, a quick sauce made in the pan is a good choice, too. A browned butter sauce, what French cooks call beurre noisette, tastes rich and nutty. You make it at the very last minute, just after the fish comes out of the pan.

When a chunk of cold butter hits the hot pan, it immediately begins to sizzle and foam. Be careful to cook the butter until it just starts to brown, then turn off the heat.

As when making caramel, residual heat will continue to cook the mixture, and the brown will deepen. You want the sauce to taste toasty, not burned, and there’s a fine line. To stop the browning and supply a welcome citrusy hit, give it a squeeze of lemon.

As an additional enhancement, throw a handful of fresh sage leaves into the pan. It is amazing how immediately the sage flavor permeates the sauce. The herb contrasts nicely with both butter and fish, and the subtle combination is quite wonderful.

The brown butter and sage sauce — a classic Italian combination — has other uses. It is delightful spooned over a bowl of gnocchi or ravioli.

FISH WITH BROWN BUTTER, LEMON AND SAGE

  • About 1-1/2 pounds firm white-fleshed fish fillets (such as mahimahi, swordfish, snapper, grouper or halibut), cut into 4 pieces
  • Salt and black pepper, to taste
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1/4 cup coarse bread crumbs, toasted
  • 2 tablespoons minced parsley
  • Lemon wedges, for serving
  • >> Sauce
  • 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 12 to 15 fresh sage leaves
  • 2 tablespoons lemon juice

Season fish on both sides with plenty of salt and pepper.

Pour oil into a large, heavy skillet (preferably cast iron or nonstick) and set over medium-high heat. When oil is hot (but not smoking), swirl to evenly coat pan, then add fish in single layer. Let cook undisturbed 3 to 4 minutes, until first side is nicely browned. Adjust heat as needed to produce a steady sizzle and prevent scorching.

Flip and cook fish about another 3 minutes, until just done. (To test, use a fork to gently probe flesh: It should flake easily.) Transfer cooked fish to a warm platter or serving plates.

To make sauce: Place skillet back on the stove over medium-high heat. Add butter and sage leaves. Cook, swirling pan, until butter is foamy and just beginning to brown, about 1 minute. Turn off heat and stir in lemon juice.

Spoon butter sauce and sage leaves over fish. Sprinkle with bread crumbs and parsley. Serve immediately, with lemon wedges. Serves 4.

Nutritional information unavailable.

© 2017 The New York Times Company

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