Hanoi, the 1,000-year-old Vietnamese capital, is a captivating blend of influences: Ancient Buddhist temples stand alongside beguilingly narrow “tube houses,” Soviet-style apartment blocks and, increasingly, swanky new high-rises. Affectionately known by some residents as “the world’s biggest village,” contemporary Hanoi is a place of boundless energy and entrepreneurial dynamism. Hidden speakeasies and new galleries are springing up, and last year, several restaurants received the country’s first-ever Michelin stars.
Friday
7 p.m. Walk the streets
The roads encircling Hoan Kiem Lake, the historic heart of the capital, have been pedestrianized on weekends since 2016, banishing the maelstrom of traffic and offering a rare space for play in a city that can feel claustrophobic. Enjoy a band, watch hip-hop dancers, try your hand at Vietnamese folk games or have your portrait drawn by the lakeside. Alternatively, arrive at 5 a.m. and witness a tranquil scene as older residents practice tai chi at dawn.
8 p.m. Savor northern food
Among the three high-end establishments awarded Hanoi’s first-ever Michelin stars, Tam Vi stands out for offering something different: affordable and authentic northern Vietnamese cuisine. Housed in a quaint wooden building, the restaurant offers comforting dishes such as fried tofu in tomato sauce, braised fish and cha la lot — minced pork wrapped in wild betel leaves. The caramelized pork belly with eggs (172,000 dong, or about $7) is particularly soul-warming.
10 p.m. Raise a glass
At the end of an unremarkable alleyway, find Wong Bar Wine, cofounded in 2022 by Nguyen Qui Duc, a former refugee who was a radio broadcaster and writer in the U.S. before moving to Hanoi. Duc died last year. With its crimson lighting and brocade fabric, the small bar — it holds only a dozen people — was inspired by the moody films of Hong Kong director Wong Kar-wai, yet it is equally a shrine to Duc’s aesthetic.
Saturday
9 a.m. Delve into the past
While the Temple of Literature offers a glimpse into Hanoi’s 1,000-year history, the Imperial Citadel of Thang Long (entrance 70,000 dong) reveals layers of the past. Though little remains of the original palace, the main gate, built during the 11th-century Ly dynasty, stands impressively before a sweeping lawn. Yet the real surprise lies below. Descend to find bunkers — built in 1967 and used by Vietnam’s military leaders as shelter from U.S. bombing raids — that served as clandestine war rooms.
11 a.m. Relish decadent coffee
Take respite in an old French villa on charming Chan Cam street. The architectural gem houses establishments such as Loading T, a cafe whose owners roast their beans with cinnamon; its menu features coffee drinks (40,000 to 90,000 dong) fused with items such as yogurt, egg, salt, coconut, banana and lime.
12:30 p.m. Embrace adrenaline
Set your pulse racing on a street-food tour on two wheels organized by Vespa Adventures. Ride pillion on a vintage Vespa motorbike as you weave through Hanoi, tasting classic dishes like bun cha (grilled pork patties with rice noodles), banh mi (Vietnamese baguette) and bo bia ngot (freshly grated coconut wrapped in rice paper). The ride also buzzes past major sights across the capital, including the Opera House, Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum, the Presidential Palace and Train Street, where tourists sip drinks mere inches from passing trains. (Four-hour tour, 2 million dong.)
6 p.m. Enjoy exceptional fare
For a classic Hanoian dish, head to Cha Ca Thang Long for its signature feast: fillets of catfish fried over a burner on your table, coated in turmeric and dill, and served with roasted peanuts, fresh herbs and vermicelli noodles (140,000 dong). Confusingly, multiple restaurants share the same name, but the grand villa at 6B Duong Thanh offers the best atmosphere. Or try Chapter, one of the city’s newest fine-dining restaurants. Head chef Truong Quang Dung sources produce from across northern Vietnam to craft an exceptional 12-course tasting menu (2.15 million dong, without alcohol pairing).
8 p.m. Dream of jazz
The newest entrant to Hanoi’s fledgling jazz scene, Long Waits, opened in the Hoan Kiem district last year, has garnered a reputation as arguably the finest haven for jazz in the capital. The house band, led by influential saxophonist Nguyen Bao Long, performs classic jazz albums every weekend, showcasing artists ranging from Miles Davis and John Coltrane to Chet Baker and Billie Holiday (shows cost 250,000 dong).
11 p.m. Sip cocktails
Hanoi has seen an explosion of speakeasies in recent years, but few possess as much character as Longer Than a Summer. Down an alleyway beside St. Joseph’s Cathedral (you may need to ask for directions), the bar is ideal for introverts. A discreet doorbell grants entry to a dark room where customers drink by candlelight. Those who raise their voice are asked to speak in hushed tones to preserve the ambience. There are only cocktails (250,000 dong) and whiskey, and no menu. Dress smart.
Sunday
9 a.m. Climb into a longhouse
Venture out west to the Vietnam Museum of Ethnology (entrance 40,000 dong) in the Cau Giay district, which details the customs of Vietnam’s 54 ethnic groups. Visit galleries displaying artifacts, statues, carvings and altars from across the nation, as well as woodblock prints, ceramics, weaving and intricately detailed traditional dress. A reconstruction of a Black Thai stilt house is intriguing, but don’t miss the array of traditional architecture assembled in an outside garden.
11 a.m. Explore a neighborhood
In 1967, John McCain, the future U.S. senator, parachuted into Truc Bach Lake when his plane was shot down over Hanoi, before he endured years in captivity. The area beside the lake now boasts cafes, bars and vintage clothing stores. Sip lemonade in the laid-back Fu Hoo Cafe or craft beer in Standing Bar. For a glimpse of the past, an old-style tram (opens 2 p.m.) displays nostalgic artifacts from the postwar subsidy period, a time when hunger, not affluence, shaped daily life.
1 p.m. Search for souvenirs
For intriguing souvenirs, in the Tay Ho district a few miles north of Truc Bach, the eco-conscious Kilomet 109 offers naturally dyed garments made by local artisans. Or visit Zo Project, a social enterprise supporting the last families still handcrafting Do paper — a centuries-old tradition — selling notebooks and posters made from the richly textured material. For a treat, Maison Marou in the Hoan Kiem district is a modern-day Willy Wonka factory. Its chile-and-cinnamon hot chocolate (90,000 dong) is intensely satisfying, as are its chocolate bars (155,000 dong) infused with ingredients such as kumquat, pepper and coconut.
3 p.m. Contemplate modern art
With censorship concerns and a dearth of grants, Hanoi has never been an easy place for independent artists, though an influx of private funding is forging new contemporary art spaces. There remains nowhere quite as appealing, however, as Manzi Art Space (free), housed in an elegant villa in the Ba Dinh district. Known for its thought-provoking exhibitions and performances, Manzi is a hub for Hanoi’s artistic and intellectual community.
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