Not all wines are created equal. This statement is even more apparent when exploring the growing segment of pink wines.

The lack of understanding of pink wines became apparent when I recently dined at one of Hawaii’s new restaurants. I overheard a table next to me asking their server what makes one rosé on the wine list different from the others.

On paper, these selections were similar. Both were priced equally and were listed in a different language which offered no relevant information unless one was familiar with the region or the producer. I’m also often unfamiliar with the producer; when dining out, I hone in on wines that I haven’t drank yet, but also because there are more than 11,000 wineries in the United States alone.

When selecting a pink wine, I often ask what grape was used to make the rosé. Rosé derives its pink hue from contact with the skins of red grapes. Those grapes pass on the traits found in their red form to their pink form. Pinot noir is usually delicate and crisp while grenache will be herbaceous and offer more plush red fruit. Even among “experts,” there is no consensus on what grape is responsible for crafting “the best” rosés. Think of rosé wine as a spectrum of different flavors and weights that you can customize for any occasion.

Here are two rosés that feature grapes less common in pink form. My choices reflect fuller-bodied wines with a little more spice and sass during the late summer season.

Clos La Coutale, Malbec Rosé
In Southwest France, the Bernède family guides one of the regions oldest domaines, founded before the French Revolution. Malbec might’ve been popularized in Argentina, but it originated in Cahors, France, where it lends itself perfectly to the cuisine of the region: duck. Try this deeply colored, fruity rosé with duck fat fries or pork hash and roast duck, as it has enough stuffing to hold up against the bold flavors of the dishes while also possessing the freshness to work with spice and salt.
Cost: $16/bottle.

Domaine de la Chanteleuserie, Bourgueil Rosé
This seventh-generation winery in the Loire Valley translates to a “place where the larks sing.” This is cabernet Franc country; the domaine is a staunch proponent of the grape. Where the laws allow up to a 10% addition of the popular cabernet sauvignon, you won’t find any in the vineyards of Chanteleuserie. This dry wine offers a touch of the “greenness” that the often-vegetal grape showcases, with a creamy, zesty frame bursting with blood orange and red flowers. Drink chilled with charcuterie and grilled sweet peppers and onions.
Cost: $19/bottle.

Chris Ramelb is an award-winning master sommelier, and director of education and restaurant sales manager of Southern Glazer’s Wine & Spirits of Hawaii. Follow him on Instagram (@masterisksomm).