There’s no doubt that there are diners lamenting the closure of Piggy Smalls, but in its place has appeared something quite novel — the upscale Filipino restaurant Peso.

There’s definitely a curiosity factor attached to that description, so the restaurant has been buzzing from day one.

In place of the big bowls and family-style platters associated with neighborhood Filipino restaurants, there are dozens of small plates and a handful of large, colorfully presented.

And of course, you can start with any number of wines or cocktails such as the Jeepney G-Wagon of Philippines origin Kasama rum, Ko Hana Kea rum, pineapple and calamansi syrup ($13).

As for the food menu, it’s difficult to know where to start. In this environment, every dish is a mix of the familiar and tempting curiosity.

Among small plates is the colorful vegan dish of pinakbet ($16) combining kabocha, eggplant, long beans, bok choy and vegan bagoong made from the Korean soybean paste doenjang and shiitake mushrooms.

There is also the noodle dish pancit ($14), comprising spaghetti-like Canton noodles tossed with shiitake, strips of red bell pepper and green onions.

One of my favorite small plates was the kinilaw ($18) comprising diced kanpachi, ginger coconut cream, cucumber and avocado.

I also enjoyed polishing off the ensaladang talong ($14) a salad of charred eggplant with tomatoes, onions and bagoong vinaigrette.

There are a lot of familiar temptations I have yet to try, including the popular kare kare ($26) stew of braised beef in peanut sauce, and sinigang ($24) pork collar with beans, taro, tomato and bok choy.

I was disappointed that the eatery had run out of crispy pata ($46), the deep-fried pork that is a must at Filipino restaurants. It’s definitely one of my favorite dishes but scarcity is the price of popularity.

As for large plates, there is bistek ($50), a 14-ounce steak marinated in soy and citrus, and ti leaf steamed whole fish (market price) stuffed with lemongrass, ginger and other aromatics for flavor, and topped with purée of charred tomatoes.

There is also a dry-style chicken adobo ($26 half/$46 whole), accompanied by a salty adobo jus. This is one dish in which I prefer the more rustic neighborhood restaurant version.

What’s left are a series of desserts, including a creamy, thick, white custard ube budino ($12), pandan soft serve ($10) and icy halo halo ($13) accented with bits of mango, mung beans and guava purée.

Peso is definitely an exciting addition to the dining scene.

Peso

Ward Centre
1200 Ala Moana Blvd., Honolulu
Food: ***
Service: ****
Ambiance: ***
Value: ***
Call: 808-369-7676
Hours: 10 a.m.-2 p.m. saturdays-sundays, and 5-10 p.m. wednesdays-sundays
Prices: About $100 for two without alcohol

Nadine Kam’s restaurant visits are unannounced and paid for by Honolulu Star-Advertiser. Follow Nadine on Instagram (@nadinekam) or on YouTube (youtube.com/nadinekam).