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Travel

5 cozy hotels where winter is a treat

SIM CANETTY-CLARKE / NEW YORK TIMES
                                The India Suite at the Fife Arms in the Scottish Highlands.
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SIM CANETTY-CLARKE / NEW YORK TIMES

The India Suite at the Fife Arms in the Scottish Highlands.

LAWRENCE BRAUN / NEW YORK TIMES
                                The Dandelion restaurant at the new Eastwind ­Oliverea Valley in the Catskills features a “forage-to-­table” menu.
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LAWRENCE BRAUN / NEW YORK TIMES

The Dandelion restaurant at the new Eastwind ­Oliverea Valley in the Catskills features a “forage-to-­table” menu.

NIKOLAS KOENIG / NEW YORK TIMES
                                Relax in front of the fireplace in the library at the Newbury Boston.
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NIKOLAS KOENIG / NEW YORK TIMES

Relax in front of the fireplace in the library at the Newbury Boston.

SIM CANETTY-CLARKE / NEW YORK TIMES
                                The India Suite at the Fife Arms in the Scottish Highlands.
LAWRENCE BRAUN / NEW YORK TIMES
                                The Dandelion restaurant at the new Eastwind ­Oliverea Valley in the Catskills features a “forage-to-­table” menu.
NIKOLAS KOENIG / NEW YORK TIMES
                                Relax in front of the fireplace in the library at the Newbury Boston.

While the holidays are long gone, there are still plenty of winter days ahead. Why not spend a few of them at a cozy hotel where you can savor the season’s pleasures — crisp air, snowy fields, the scent of a maple log fire? From a new lodge in Grand Canyon National Park to a Victorian-era hotel in the Scottish Highlands, these properties cultivate toasty, cheerful atmospheres with fire pits, “fireplace butlers” (more on that shortly), saunas and cocktails made with toasted marshmallow syrup. No need for a ski resort. Be it a cabin in the Catskills or a boutique hotel in Old Quebec, at these five escapes you can sip, stroll, sink into velvet sofas with books and board games, and embrace the new year.

BOSTON

The Newbury Boston

Winter in New England calls to mind frozen ponds and snowy mountains. Yet at the Newbury Boston you’ll find a countryside pleasure in the midst of the city: 42 suites with wood-burning fireplaces, complete with a fireplace butler to fan the flames. Guests select their choice of wood from — what else? — the fireplace menu, which includes birch, cherry, maple and oak. “In the early evening,” the menu’s oak option begins, “retire to your room and enjoy this lightly scented, long-burning wood.”

Also on the menu: wine, cocktails and a nosh section with treats such as s’mores, molten chocolate cake and, for those longing for something savory, grilled cheese and tomato bisque. For a wintry cocktail, the Campfire is fittingly smoky, made with tequila, mezcal, toasted marshmallow syrup and mole chocolate bitters with a toasted marshmallow on top. Hot chocolate lover? Consider the Spiked Drinking Chocolate made with chocolate, rum and creme de cacao. (There’s nonalcoholic hot cocoa, too.)

The Newbury opened in 2021 in a building that almost a century ago was home to one of the first Ritz-Carlton hotels in the country. Today there are 286 rooms, along with Contessa, a rooftop Italian restaurant. From $600 a night.

Info: thenewburyboston.com

THE CATSKILLS AND LAKE PLACID, N.Y.

Eastwind Oliverea Valley, Eastwind Lake Placid

The new Eastwind Oliverea Valley opened in January in the Catskills with 27 cozy rooms and cabins that feature clean lines inspired by Scandinavian design. Some are free-standing wood A-frame cabins with private outdoor decks and private bathrooms nearby. Others are luxury cabins with decks, minifridges and en suite bathrooms. In the main guesthouse, some of the king rooms have lofts and skylights with netting beneath them so you can lie down and gaze up.

Bundle up to take in the season’s stark beauty on a hike right off the property, or go for a short drive to some of the most popular trailheads in the Catskill Forest Preserve’s Slide Mountain Wilderness, including Giant Ledge and Slide Mountain, the tallest peak in the Catskills. You may simply wish to stay put and stay warm in one of the dry saunas, or by joining fellow guests at a communal fire pit, by working up a sweat with a sunrise yoga class or by playing one of the board games available in the lobby (where you can purchase s’mores kits).

Dandelion — a restaurant and bar from Daniel Cipriani, the restaurateur and a founder of Eastwind Hotels — has an inviting fireplace and a “forage-to-table” menu. From $279 a night.

Also worth noting: About four hours north of Eastwind Oliverea Valley is a sister property, Eastwind Lake Placid, which opened a few months ago in what was once a 1950s motor inn. Nowadays it’s a getaway with 25 rooms and cabins (some with fireplaces), a fire pit and a library with vintage books. From $200 a night.

Info: eastwindhotels.com

THE SCOTTISH HIGHLANDS

The Fife Arms

Nestled in Cairngorms National Park in the Scottish Highlands, the Fife Arms looks like a film set for a winter romance with its dark wood, taxidermy, tartan and tweed. A former Victorian coaching inn, it’s now owned by Iwan and Manuela Wirth of the art gallery Hauser & Wirth. So it’s no surprise the property is filled with historical objects and thousands of works of art, including some by Picasso and Man Ray, as well as a pencil-and-­watercolor stag’s head by Queen Victoria.

Speaking of royals, after the Wirths’ restoration of the property, King Charles III and Camilla, the queen consort (known in Scotland at the time as the Duke and Duchess of Rothesay), visited the Fife Arms to celebrate its reopening. The hotel is in the village of Braemar, where Queen Elizabeth II was a fixture at the Highland Games, and has 46 bedrooms that take the area’s stories, characters and history as their inspiration. Among them are suites that pay homage to the Victorian era, and rooms dedicated to nature and poets such as the Scottish writer Nan Shepherd. For an intimate winter nook, consider a croft room, where you can sleep in a cabin bed enclosed with panels and curtains.

When temperatures plunge, take refuge among the locals with “a pint and pie” at the Flying Stag, a pub adorned with antlers and a fantastical stag with the wings of a ptarmigan soaring above the bar. For Scottish specialties, there’s the Clunie Dining Room. Spend a winter’s night inside the sultry Bertie’s Whisky Bar, which takes its name from King Edward VII (known as Bertie to family and friends), where crimson velvet seats set the mood and tables with uplighting ensure the whisky glows as it’s poured into your glass. From 434 pounds a night, or about $535 (includes breakfast and VAT).

Info: thefifearms.com

GRAND CANYON NATIONAL PARK, ARIZONA

Maswik South Lodge

Billing itself as the first new hotel inside the national park in more than 50 years, Maswik South Lodge opened last year in a ponderosa pine forest, within walking distance of the South Rim, making it easy to experience the canyon’s wintry majesty at any hour.

Part of the Maswik Lodge complex, Maswik South is meant to hark back to the site’s original 1920s motor lodge, when traveling by car to the national parks was first in vogue. After a multimillion-dollar reconstruction by Xanterra Travel Collection, the South Lodge now has four two-story buildings with 90 standard guest rooms and 30 kitchenettes.

All of the guest rooms have outdoor spaces from which to breathe in the forest air, along with textiles that the hotel says were inspired by Native American artwork and color schemes that call to mind the canyon with shades of red, green and ocher. Electric-vehicle charging stations can be found around the south buildings. Over at the main lodge, there’s a food court and a pizza pub. (Note: The complex also has a North Lodge, which has not been renovated.) From $139 a night for Maswik South (North Lodge rates are from $99 a night).

Info: grandcanyonlodges.com

OLD QUEBEC CITY

Auberge Saint-Antoine

When it comes to relishing winter, few places compare to the historic district of Old Quebec, a UNESCO World Heritage site that is home to one of the world’s grandest winter carnivals (this year’s festivities just wrapped up). Even if you don’t sign up for “snow Zumba” or slide on an inner tube from atop the city’s ­fortified walls, the snowy ­romance of Old Quebec’s cobblestone streets and French-influenced architecture is reason enough to visit. There, in the Old Port, you’ll find Auberge Saint-­Antoine, a Relais & Chateaux boutique hotel in three buildings, including what was once an 18th-century residence, a stone warehouse that dates to the 19th century, and a contemporary addition.

Pop into Bar Artefact for a cocktail in the fireplace nook with its floor-to-ceiling windows. Or for Canadian fare with an emphasis on local ingredients, head to Chez Muffy, where tables are arranged around a glass-­enclosed fireplace in the maritime warehouse amid old stone walls, wooden beams, and views of the vast St. Lawrence River. From 285 Canadian dollars (about $213) a night based on double occupancy.

Info: saint-antoine.com

© 2023 The New York Times Company

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