I’ve been a big fan of jerk-marinated chicken since 1992, when I discovered a recipe from New York’s “King of Jerk,” Allan Vernon, in Molly O’Neill’s New York Cookbook. It was so delicious thanks to a marinade of onions, vinegar, spices and fiery peppers.
But given a choice, I’d prefer someone else make it for me and have became spoiled by the presence of a reliable go-to source, Jawaiian Irie Jerk. I never imagined there would come a day when my supply would come to an end, but that day came in spring 2018 when chef-owner Caswell “Cassie” Simmonds shut his doors in favor of returning home to Jamaica.
I was distraught, but growing up in Hawaii, I’ve learned to accept the reality of many hellos and goodbyes due to the constant brain drain, a loss of talent due to our high cost of living.
But now, a bright spot has emerged with the opening of Posh Caribbean Grill on Kap ahulu Avenue. It’s the work of chef-owner Daiseea “Posh” Dowding and might be considered one of the happier results of the pandemic when Posh, working as an optician, lost her job and fell back on her childhood passion for cooking to survive.
The self-taught chef took to the kitchen in her native Guyana at about 8 years old, and during the pandemic started promoting her cooking via social media, building up enough of an audience to enable the opening of her brick-and-mortar location in October.
The menu is a work in progress while she gauges what people want, but with the offering of jerk meats and seafood, I was so there.
Jerk’s roots are in 17th century Jamaica when a British invasion forced out Spanish rule, and Indigenous people who had been enslaved by the Spanish escaped to the mountains, surviving by hunting boar that they seasoned with salt and peppers, wrapped in leaves and roasted in underground smokeless pits to avoid detection.
Out of this survival tactic evolved delicious and potent blends of spices and peppers, most specifically the lantern-shaped Scotch bonnet. Unable to find the pepper here, Posh substitutes the habanero, which matches the Scotch bonnet in heat level, both falling at the center of the Scoville heat rating of peppers. At Posh, you experience the aromatic spices before that bit of heat hits you.
A plate of jerk chicken ($25) is a good place to start. It features two pieces of marinated chicken with a choice of white rice, fried rice or Caribbean-style rice and beans sweetened with coconut milk. You also have the option of a cabbage slaw or spicy seasonal vegetables. If you have a low tolerance for heat, the cabbage is a better option, calming your tongue if the jerk proves too spicy for you.
Other jerk-seasoned plates include salmon ($29), shrimp ($27), and coming in the future, lamb chops ($38).
But Posh’s pride is her savory Guyanese style oxtails ($32), slow-braised over low heat so the meat falls easily from the bones the moment you try to pick up a piece.
I was so excited to get to these dishes when I should have mentioned starters of fried calamari ($13) in a light batter with cornmeal for extra crunch, as well as delicious fried chicken wings ($15) tossed in a mango Hennessy sauce that is sweet without being cloying.
Listed on a kid’s menu is a very adult-pleasing five-cheese lobster mac and cheese ($15) and, luckily, age is no barrier to ordering it. But rivaling this dish is the equally gratifying Rasta Pasta ($23), a creamy dish of penne accented with bell peppers and onions. To this you could add chicken ($5), shrimp ($7) or fillet of salmon ($9).
Curry chicken ($23) is also available but turned out to be the least favorite dish at the table just because most of us in Hawaii are accustomed to rich gravy-like curries. Here, the chicken is doused in curry spices and presented dry, without the warm sauce we crave.
Though her menu shows a short list of desserts, Posh is still looking for a pastry chef who can bring such creations as coconut carrot cake and pineapple crème brulée to life.
In the interim, you could walk a few steps up the block to the boba tea and dessert café, Little Sweet, at 756 Palani Ave., for a sweet bite.
Posh Caribbean Grill
758 Kapahulu Ave., Honolulu
Food: ***½
Service: ***
Ambiance: ***
Value: ***½
Call: 808-200-5648
Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Wednesdays-Mondays
Prices: About $70-$80 for two
Nadine Kam’s restaurant visits are unannounced and paid for by Honolulu Star-Advertiser. Follow Nadine on Instagram (@nadinekam) or on YouTube (youtube.com/nadinekam).
