Beer is an amazing drink in that it can take on so many flavors, colors, aromas and styles. How can one beverage be so diverse? Just think about it, there are brilliantly clear and crisp beers like a Pilsner and there are dark as midnight, thick beers like imperial stouts. This variety was born out of necessity. From the beginning of beer making thousands of years ago, brewers have used ingredients they have found around them, tossing them into the beer and experimenting with flavors.
Spices and herbs have been used in beers for a very long time to not only add flavor but to also provide bitterness. Long before hops were used in beer, brewers used various herbs and spices, called gruit in Western Europe, to balance out the sweetness of the malt used to make beer. The ingredients varied from region to region and could include everything from juniper berries and pine twigs (Finland) to mugwort, heather, and common spices like cinnamon and caraway seed.
Although the use of herbs and spices were replaced in the 15th century by hops, which also had antiseptic properties that helped extend beer’s shelf life, some regions continued using them in small amounts. The Belgians kept using some herbs and spices in beers along with hops. If you’ve ever had a Belgian white ale (Blue Moon), you’ve tasted coriander and dried orange peel. American brewers have taken inspiration from the Belgians and are using herbs and spices in various styles of beers as well.
Looking to try a few beers with a touch of extra flavor? Here are four to seek out:
Brasserie d’Achouffe N’Ice (thyme and orange peel): A winter Belgian Ale that packs a punch at 10% alcohol by volume (abv). Although dark brown in color, it is not heavily roasted and the orange peel and Curaçao shine through. The thyme is very subtle and adds just a hint of herbal character to the finish. A perfect beer for these cool “winter” evenings.
Lanikai Tutu Got Run Over By A Reindeer (allspice and orange peel): This locally brewed winter ale uses locally grown allspice foraged from Manoa valley and locally sourced orange peels. Allspice is made from the dried berries of the Pimenta dioica plant and has notes of nutmeg, cinnamon, clove and freshly cracked black pepper (see why it’s called allspice?). In this malt-forward beer the spice adds a subtle touch of classic winter flavors that blend well with the hint of citrus. Be on the lookout for this seasonal release in limited cans and on draft.
Firestone Walker Cinnamon Dolce Nitro Milk Stout (cinnamon and vanilla): Cinnamon and vanilla are two flavors that meld perfectly together in almost every application, and when combined into a dark and chocolate rich stout they steal the show. This new winter release from Firestone Walker is dessert in a glass that makes you wish you had a fireplace and a soft blanket.
Broken Boundary Detective Stout (varies): Now on its third version, this big imperial stout uses different spices and herbs in each release. The secret ingredients are not announced and the brewery allows fans to send in their guesses via social media. It’s a fun way to dive into the flavors of a beer. Previous versions have used spices like nutmeg, clove, cardamom and chocolate. Cans are available at the brewery.
Tim Golden, a certified cicerone, is part owner of Village Bottle Shop & Tasting Room in Kakaako. Check out beerinhawaii.com and follow him on Instagram (@beerinhawaii). Tim’s column appears every third Wednesday in Crave.
