Seasonal and scarcity are the themes that get me excited about pumpkins every year. Sure, I’ll carve one or two and let it get soggy on the porch.

I am never as excited about decor, though, as I am all about the main course. I’ve shared a pumpkin recipe for this column every fall since I started it, and I’m still going strong. Pumpkin mania gets a bad rap when everything gets the pumpkin spice treatment. Pumpkin flavors are almost never about the actual vegetable. Don’t take my pumpkin spice latte away; I’m just saying.

Canned pumpkin is good for more than pie, and its savory side needs to be explored. Let me advocate for pumpkin soup, pumpkin enchiladas, pumpkin chili, stuffed pumpkins, in a quiche or as a savory spread. There’s little reason to keep it to this short season. Pumpkin in pasta sauce is creamy, melts well, and pairs well with dairy and cheese. It’s a nice step away from the common marinara and pesto sauces. It coats and clings to almost any pasta shape. Here, I chose gnocchi. I prefer the frozen kind, sautéed. I think gnocchi was traditionally boiled, but just like brussels sprouts, you should just stick to browning if you want to eat them.

Maybe you like extra sticky, chewy gnocchi. I suppose that could be your thing. My daughter declared the sauce addictive and scooped up more sauce than pasta. I guess that’s one way to eat your veggies.

Gnocchi with Brown Butter Pumpkin Sauce

Ingredients:

• 2-3 cups frozen gnocchi

• 2 tablespoons oil (avocado or similar is best)

• 3 tablespoons salted butter

• Handful of sage leaves

• 1 cup pumpkin purée

• 1/4 teaspoons salt

• 1 tablespoon brown sugar

• 1/2 cup heavy cream

• 1/4 cup grated Parmesan (fresh style, not the shaker bottle), plus more for sprinkling

Directions:

Heat the oil in a heavy bottom saucepan over medium heat.

When hot, lay the sage leaves in the oil and fry on both sides, about 20-30 seconds. It will foam and then subside.

Remove the leaves to a paper towel-lined plate and let cool. It should crisp up as it cools.

Turn the heat down a bit, and in the same oil, saute the frozen gnocchi. Let it brown on all sides, turning as it browns. Cover it with a lid between turns. The whole process should take 5-7 minutes. Remove the gnocchi and set aside.

Over low heat, add the butter to the same pan and wait until it melts and the foam subsides.

Add the pumpkin purée; stir until combined with the butter. Add the salt, sugar, heavy cream and Parmesan, stirring again. When it is hot, taste and adjust seasoning as desired.

Serve the gnocchi with the pumpkin sauce, top with sage and extra Parmesan.

Serves 4.

Mariko Jackson writes about family and food. Email her at thelittlefoodie@gmail.com.