For chef Graham Elliot, moving to Hawaii this past spring truly felt like coming home.
“I feel like I’m living my best life by not only being on Oahu, but also being surrounded by the nicest people to work with,” he says.
That’s saying a lot for someone who’s lived in all 50 states, received three James Beard Foundation nominations and, at age 27, was named the youngest four-star chef in any major U.S. city. Oh, and Elliot also did 10 seasons with the Fox TV cooking competition series MasterChef and MasterChef Junior, and was a judge on Bravo TV’s Top Chef.
But for the world-renowned culinary expert, relocating to Hawaii was all about timing.
“I came back (to Oahu) in February to visit, and that’s when I really made the decision,” says Elliot, a self-described “Navy brat” who grew up in Ewa Beach and lived on Oahu during the 1980s. “I tried to come back (to Hawaii) during vacations; I always felt this was home.
“I think COVID-19 changed a lot of people’s mindsets, making them ask, ‘What makes you happy?’” he adds. “Every time I came to visit Hawaii, I’d always feel like my best self.”
During his February visit, Elliot connected with Felix Tai, Polynesian Cultural Center’s executive chef.
“I told him I was moving out to Oahu and I wanted to get in a kitchen to stay busy,” Elliot recalls. “I asked if he knew of anything, and he said, ‘We have a restaurant called Pounders that doesn’t have a chef right now; what do you think?’ I jumped at it; it was a great opportunity to work with PCC.”
Elliot describes what he’s doing at Pounders as “reconnecting to roots through a culinary revolution.”
“It’s not just a new menu,” he says. “It’s how we take the vision and reestablish what PCC stands for. It’s a way to highlight the local cuisine, culture and energy.”
The new menu features Elliot’s creative twist on Hawaii favorites. When possible, the menu will also feature locally sourced ingredients.
“I avoid having signature dishes because the minute the guest has become familiar with it, it gets boring,” Elliot says.
One of his favorite menu items is the roasted beet “poke,” a plant-based creation comprising field greens, sea asparagus, whipped avocado and macadamia nuts.
“It’s just a root vegetable, but it’s elevated and resembles something people have seen before,” Elliot explains.
If it’s on the menu, get the “Char Siu” double-cut pork chop that comes with taro hash, Chinese cabbage, mango salsa and a sticky, sweet guava barbecue glaze. The crispy whole sunfish with hot and sour sauce and green onions is another unique dish.
If you’re looking for something more familiar, order the pineapple fried rice — Elliot’s twist on surf and turf — that showcases a whole pineapple filled with fried rice, seared Spam, garlic shrimp, toasted cashews, peas, carrots and green onions. Or, ask about the featured pizza of the day; during our visit, it was a Portuguese sausage pizza.
“Portuguese sausage is something ubiquitous here; why wouldn’t you do that?” Elliot says.
As he gets to know the PCC staff and team, Elliot recalls takeaways from his MasterChef days.
“People on that show are not professional chefs who worked at Michelin-star restaurants,” he says. “They’re football players and stay-at-home moms who are doing it because they love it. When you realize people care that much about food, it makes you commit more. “You have to approach everyone based on their story, and when there’s so much change, that’s important,” he adds. “It’s bringing them (the staff) along to share that vision and it’s really exciting.”
When he’s not working, Elliot enjoys surfing, spearfishing and diving. He says he’s honored by the opportunity to work with PCC.
“I give all the credit to PCC and vice president Greg Maples, who oversees food services, for believing we need to elevate the concept,” Elliot says. “I’m blessed to have landed in this.”
Pounders Restaurant
55-370 Kamehameha Hwy., Laie
808-293-3287
11 a.m.-8:30 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays, closed Wednesdays and Sundays
poundersrestaurant.com