When George Holapa’s friends open his jars of Pickle ‘Opae, they react with delight — “So much shrimp!” The Moiliili man is a showman. He displays all the dried shrimp at the top of his local-style pickle made with onions, tomatoes and limu.
Many people pickle onions or limu (seaweed), but Holapa’s attention to detail shows in the quality of his version, and he is very particular about every aspect of the dish.
Holapa, 28, has tried many vinegars and prefers the taste of Chinese red vinegar for his pickling sauce. The soy sauce he uses is Silver Swan, a Filipino sauce that is thicker and darker than Japanese or Hawaii brands.
Holapa uses sweet or white onions, which he says have more flavor than yellow, and slices them into half-moons. He slices large, ripe tomatoes the same way.
“I tried using smaller cherry tomatoes, but it was more work and wasn’t worth it.”
For the best dried shrimp, he turns to a source in Chinatown. Their bright orange color shows off their freshness. Fresh limu and dried cuttlefish strips round out the dish.
The combination is a winner, with just enough sweetness to offset the vinegar, salty and fishy flavors.
Holapa’s marinating sauce is a mix of vinegar, soy sauce and dark brown sugar. For a mild kick, add a light sprinkling of dried red chile flakes. He adds two to three minced or mashed Hawaiian chile peppers for a jolt of heat.
Waimanalo born and bred, Holapa is an AmeriCorps and Malama Aina volunteer. He learned about food while working at Whole Foods Market Kahala and Cafe Kaila in Market City. His pickle has proved so popular, he created a business, ‘Opae Ho‘i, and found a commercial kitchen to bottle his treasure. The shrimp sells for $20 per quart; order through Instagram @georgeous_opaeguy.
Once refrigerated, the pickle can be kept for a month — if you don’t devour it the first night. The longer you keep it, the more the tomatoes soften in texture. “The best pairing for the pickle is with poi,” Holapa says. “The second- best pairing is with beer!”
GEORGE HOLAPA’S PICKLE ‘OPAE
- 2 white or sweet onions (do not use yellow onions)
- 2 whole large tomatoes
- 1/2 cup fresh, raw limu (ogo or seaweed)
- 1/4 cup dried whole opae (shrimp)
- 1/4 cup dried cuttlefish strips
- >> Sauce:
- 2 cups Chinese red vinegar (substitute any vinegar)
- 1 cup soy sauce (Silver Swan brand preferred)
- 1/4 cup dark brown sugar
- Dried red chile pepper flakes or 3 Hawaiian chile peppers, minced or mashed in a mortar (optional)
>> To make sauce: In sauce pan, mix vinegar, soy sauce, brown sugar and chile, if using. Heat over medium until sugar dissolves completely, about 5 minutes. Cool to room temperature, about 30 minutes off the stove or a shorter time in the refrigerator.
Peel onions and cut from stem to root, then in 3/8-inch slices in the shape of half moons. Place in mixing bowl. Cut tomatoes the same shape and add to bowl.
Wash limu and break into chunks. Add to mixing bowl with dried shrimp and cuttlefish. When sauce is cool, pour into bowl. Let stand at room temperature at least 30 minutes.
Pour mixture and liquid into sterilized glass jars. Cover with lids and refrigerate for up to 1 month. Makes about 48 ounces.
Approximate nutritional information, per ounce: 15 calories, 300 mg sodium, 2 g carbohydrate, 1 g protein, no fat, cholesterol, fiber or sugar.
Lynette Lo Tom, author of “Back in the Day,” is fascinated by old-fashioned foods. Contact her at 275-3004 or via instagram at brightlightcookery. Nutritional analysis by Joannie Dobbs, Ph.D., C.N.S.