Ikani and Mele Naulu came together with several extended family members last week to make faikakai, a classic Tongan dessert. The family’s version, manioke faikakai, uses grated cassava supplied by the Naulus’ Foursquare Farms, resulting in mochi-like morsels that are topped with a luscious coconut caramel sauce called lolo.
Faikakai in their hands is done traditionally, requiring lots of manpower — and about half a day — to make. The process starts with grating cassava root by hand, an hours-long process. The grated cassava is squeezed to release excess liquid, then mixed with tapioca starch, coconut cream and sugar to create a dough that is baked. (The cassava liquid is reserved and, left to settle for a day, separates. The thin liquid is discarded. What’s left is thick tapioca starch used for baking other dishes.)
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Lolo calls for just two ingredients — sugar and coconut milk — cooked on the stove. But the process is a long one, requiring about two hours over low heat and regular stirring.
Authentic manioke faikakai reflects the hard work it takes to produce. Delicate cassava bites paired with silky caramel sauce deliver a dessert that is both refined in taste and satisfyingly hearty.
Other versions of faikakai are made with taro, ulu (breadfruit), sweet potato, banana, and even Tongan spinach or taro leaves.
While the Naulus cooked in traditional fashion, they provided a simpler, modern version of the recipe that calls for frozen grated cassava, available at Asian and Polynesian markets.
There’s no getting around tending to the lolo, though. But if you take the time, you will be rewarded with an excellent topping that can boost endless desserts. Mele Naulu said the sauce is shelf stable for at least a week and can be kept refrigerated for an extended period. Because of the labor involved, her family makes it in bulk and stores it in Mason jars.
Manioke Faikakai
- 2 (16-ounce) packages frozen grated cassava
- 1 (14-ounce) bag tapioca starch
- 1 (19-ounce) can coconut cream
- 1/2 cup sugar
>> Coconut caramel sauce (lolo):
- 2 cups sugar
- 1 (13-ounce) can coconut milk
Heat oven to 350 degrees.
In mixing bowl, combine cassava and tapioca starch. Incorporate coconut cream and sugar. Pour into a baking pan and bake 45 minutes.
Make sauce: In pot over high heat, melt sugar while stirring constantly. When sugar is melted, turn down heat to low until all lumps are gone. Stir in coconut milk gradually. Keep close and stir mixture regularly, until sauce turns golden brown, about 1-1/2 to 2 hours.
Cool baked cassava at least 30 minutes, then cut into bite-sized cubes. Cover with sauce. Serves 6 to 8.
Nutritional information unavailable.
