A recent gathering around the grill found a group of us discussing which cut of pork to cook that evening. Rib lovers tend to be the most vocal cheerleaders, while dieters embrace lean pork tenderloin. Myself, I love a moist, grilled pork chop for its versatility, relative quick-cooking and moderate price tag.

When grilling for company, I prefer the visual appeal of a bone-in pork chop. My favorite is the center-cut chop, which sports the beauty of a T-bone steak with the bone dividing the white loin meat and the darker tenderloin nugget on the other side.

Likewise, rib-cut pork chops, with their curved bone running along one side and the lean loin muscle meat attached to it, offer great flavor and visual appeal. These tend to have less meat per chop than their center-­cut cousins, but are often easier to find. I ask to have them cut to a generous 1 inch to 1-1/4 inches thick; this proves ideal for portion size and ease of grilling. If you purchase pre-packaged chops in the meat case, take the time to find the thickest ones.

For grilling, I steer away from pork shoulder chops, also known as blade chops or blade steaks. This section of pork needs moist heat to cook well and is better suited for the slow cooker or Dutch oven.

Whichever chops you choose, be sure to factor in time for them to sit with seasoning before cooking. The simplest way to jumpstart flavor is to salt and pepper the chops at least 30 minutes (or up to one day) before cooking.

After purchasing, I wipe the pork dry and put it in a single layer in a glass baking dish, then sprinkle all sides generously with salt and fresh pepper. Put a loose cover on the dish and refrigerate for several hours.

When I’m ready to light the grill, I remove the meat from the refrigerator to take off some of the chill. The pork can sit on the counter in a cool kitchen for 30 minutes.

While the pork warms, soak wood chips in water to add to the grill for a slightly smoky addition. I particularly like the flavor imparted by fruit woods and pecan wood chips — especially with simple finishing sauces. Use hickory and mesquite chips when you have a taste for pork with a tomato- or red-chili-based barbecue sauce.

Seasoned chops can be grilled and served as is, perhaps topped with a pat of herbed butter or a drizzle of good olive oil. Or, slather them with your favorite barbecue sauce during the last 2 or 3 minutes of cooking.

The pork dish that follows includes a topping of salted lemons, garlic, olive oil and fresh thyme.

Lighter and less salty than Moroccan-style preserved lemons, a jar of this relish stays handy in the refrigerator for a quick boost to nearly everything off the grill, plus steamed vegetables, cooked grains and hearty salads.

These chops may be accompanied by buttered pasta and sliced ripe tomatoes.

GRILLING OTHER PORK CUTS

>> Boneless pork chops are super lean and more tricky to grill than bone-in chops — especially if they are thin. Be sure to select chops at least 3/4-inch thick. Avoid overcooking them by setting a timer and moderating the grill’s (or broiler’s) heat. They’ll cook three to four minutes faster than bone-in chops.

>> Country-style pork ribs, cut from the rib end of the pork loin, are not as attractive as a bone-in chop, but quite tasty. Their moisture from generous fat marbling makes them nearly foolproof to grill, although they’ll need 10 to 15 minutes more time than chops. Slathered in barbecue sauce, this cut makes a fine, affordable entree, good for feeding a crowd.

>> Pork back ribs win hearts because they are delicious, moist and tender. You’ll need more time on the grill, about 75 minutes for a rack set on the cool side of a medium-hot grill for slow, indirect cooking. Never add barbecue sauce before the meat is golden and tender, or burning will ensue.

SMOKY GRILLED PORK CHOPS

By JeanMarie Brownson

• 6 bone-in pork chops, each about 1-1/4 inches thick and weighing 12 ounces (total 4-1/2 pounds)
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• 1 cup apple, cherry or pecan wood chips for grilling
• 4 to 6 cups small broccoli florets
• Salted lemon-garlic relish, recipe follows
• Fresh herb sprigs, for garnish

Pat chops dry and place in baking dish. Season generously on all sides with salt and pepper. Cover loosely and refrigerate at least 30 minutes or up to 24 hours.

Soak wood chips in water to cover at least 20 minutes.

Prepare a charcoal grill and until coals are covered in gray ash (an oven thermometer will register 375 degrees to 400 degrees). Or heat a gas grill to medium-high.

Drain wood chips and sprinkle over coals. Or set chips on a double thickness of foil on the grate over the gas burner. Cover grill to let grates heat.

Arrange pork chops in a single uncrowded layer on grill grates. Cover and cook without turning for 8 minutes. Gently loosen chops and flip. Cover grill and continue cooking until meat is nearly firm when pressed, 4 to 6 minutes more, to an internal temperature of 145 degrees.

Meanwhile, cook broccoli in large pot of boiling salted water, stirring once or twice, until bright green and crisp-tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Drain well. Set aside.

Remove chops to a large serving platter; scatter with broccoli. Top with lemon-garlic relish. Garnish with herb sprigs. Serves 6.

Approximate nutritional information, per serving: 433 calories, 26 g total fat, 5 g saturated fat, 133 mg cholesterol, 4 g carbohydrates, 1 g sugar, 44 g protein, 523 mg sodium, 2 g fiber.

SALTED LEMON-GARLIC RELISH

By JeanMarie Brownson

• 2 small lemons, scrubbed, ends trimmed
• 4 to 6 small cloves garlic, peeled and crushed or finely minced
• 1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme or 1/2 teaspoon dried
• 1 teaspoon coarse (kosher) salt
• 1/2 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary or 1/4 teaspoon dried
• 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard (optional)
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
• 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

Slice lemons as thinly as possible and pluck out seeds. Combine in small bowl with garlic, thyme, salt and rosemary. Massage seasonings into lemon slices to release juices. Stir in Dijon, if using, peppers and olive oil.

Pack mixture, with juices, into a glass jar with a tight-fitting lid. Refrigerate a few hours or up to 1 week. Serve at room temperature. Makes1 cup. Good with any grilled meat or layered in sandwiches.

Approximate nutritional information, per serving: 89 calories, 9 g total fat, 1 g saturated fat, no cholesterol, 2 g carbohydrates, 1 g sugar, no protein, 381 mg sodium, 1 g fiber.