While there’s a camp that believes that cooking is a science, and another that believes it is an art, I’ve recently come to the conclusion that it’s actually a bit of magic.

Sometimes I’m a devoted student to those who fastidiously experiment with butter temperature to affect crumb structure. The cookbooks I’m most often pulled to relate the story of the dough, in descriptive narrative, so that I understand just when to stop mixing.

But when it all comes down to it, I recognize that magic makes the biggest difference.

This abracadabra recipe for ice cream is truly magical. It’s so simple, it feels like cheating. I assure you, that’s what a good trick feels like. And I’ve found that anything with sweetened condensed milk and lilikoi, is just that.

When you have an abundance of lilikoi, you’ve got mystical powers on your side. You can also pick up some puree, frozen, at a Mercado De La Raza, the Latin market on Beretania Street, or Chef Zone. I think it important to have this ingredient on hand, for use at a moment’s notice.

I’ve had varying levels of success with ice cream recipes, and generally leave it to professionals who have built their craft. But anyone with a beater and a freezer can make this ice cream.

It’s about as complex as when your dad finds a quarter in your ear, and we’re delighted, just the same.

LILIKOI SWIRL ICE CREAM

By Mariko Jackson

• 1 cup lilikoi puree
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 2 cups cream
• 1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk

Heat lilikoi puree and sugar in a saucepan over medium-high. When it reaches a boil, turn heat down to medium, and keep it at a low boil or simmer for about 10 minutes. You want it to be a syrup once it cools down.

Put syrup in a jar or mug with a handle and let cool about 10 minutes. Chill in refrigerator a couple of hours. Resist the urge to drink it.

Pour cream into a bowl and beat with whisk attachment until it turns into whipped cream with stiff peaks. Don’t overbeat. Fold sweetened condensed milk into cream, turning it as you fold, until it is completely mixed. You don’t need to be too careful during this folding process, but don’t go crazy with the stirring.

Pour a quarter of the cream into a loaf pan, then drizzle a quarter of the lilikoi syrup over the cream. Repeat layers until you’ve filled the pan.

Cover with a sheet of parchment or wax paper, stick it in the freezer and chill at least 5 hours (depending on your freezer, you might need to wait overnight).

This is a very soft ice cream, and should be eaten right after serving.

Nutritional information unavailable.

Mariko Jackson blogs about family and food at thelittlefoodie.com. Her column runs on the last Wednesday of the month. Nutritional analysis by Joannie Dobbs, Ph.D., C.N.S.