Among all the truths that I held self-evident, one was this: Adobo is made with shoyu. Turns out that’s only true most of the time.

I learned this by cruising through the new book, “Quintessential Filipino Cooking” by Liza Agbanlog (Page Street Publishing Co., $21.99), and stopping at a recipe for adobong dilaw. Dilaw means “yellow,” and refers to the use of turmeric in the recipe. Agbanlog says turmeric takes the place of shoyu in this dish, which originated in the province of Batangas.

Turmeric, grown locally and increasingly available fresh in local markets, is a bright orange root that tends to turn foods yellow. It’s like ginger in shape and texture, but not much like it in flavor; it is earthy, a bit peppery, yet slightly sweet. It is also credited with health benefits, mostly to do with battling inflammation.

Anyway, turmeric is an ingredient I’m trying to work with more, so this recipe called to me. It uses vinegar and fish sauce, so the tangy, salty components of adobo remain. The turmeric gave it a whole other dimension. I’m thinking of making this my go-to adobo.

Getting back to the book, Agbanlog writes from the perspective of a home cook influenced by her mother, from the province of Nueva Ecija, and her Chinese father. Furthering the mix: In 1992 Agbanlog immigrated to Vancouver, Canada, and had to adapt to the ingredients available in her new home. Since 2012 she has detailed her culinary adventures in her recipe blog, Salu Salo, (salu-salo.com).

I have my eye on a two other adobos — pork ribs (with shoyu) and white pork (without) — as well as a vegetarian ginisang made with mushrooms and guava.

If you’re looking for a cookbook for a gift this season, this would be a great one for someone beginning to explore Filipino cooking, or an experienced Filipino cook who’d appreciate a fresh perspective.

ADOBONG DILAW (ADOBO WITH TUMERIC)

From “Quintessential Filipino Cooking” by Liza Agbanlog

• 2 pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken pieces (thighs, drumsticks or wings)
• Salt and pepper, to taste
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 4 cloves garlic, chopped
• 1 medium onion, chopped
• 1-inch piece fresh turmeric, peeled and julienned, or 2 teaspoons turmeric powder
• 1 tablespoon fish sauce
• 1/2 cup white vinegar
• 1 cup water
• 1 teaspoon whole peppercorns
• 2 bay leaves

Season chicken lightly with salt and pepper.

Heat oil in Dutch oven or heavy pan over medium. Add garlic and onion; cook until onion starts to soften, about 2 minutes.

Add turmeric; stir. Add chicken and cook, stirring until browned, about 4 minutes.

Stir in fish sauce. Add vinegar, water, peppercorns and bay leaves; turn heat to high and bring to boil.

Reduce heat to medium, cover and simmer 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Uncover and continue cooking 10 minutes, until liquid reduces and thickens. Taste and season with more salt and pepper, if needed.

Remove bay leaves. Serve over rice. Serves 4.

Approximate nutritional information, per serving (using chicken thighs and not including salt to taste): 510 calories, 39 g fat, 10 g saturated fat, 190 mg cholesterol, 550 mg sodium, 6 g carbohydrate, 1 g fiber, 2 g sugar, 33 g protein).

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