Your brain, in cahoots with your taste buds, can play tricks on your sense of reality. Provide a familiar combination of sugar and spice, for example, and just maybe your brain will translate that into “sugary dessert!” Even if the inside is fried potatoes.

I bring you — Tot Churros.

These little bitty bites have the cinnamon-sugar flavor of churros, those Mexican fritters made of fried bread dough. But at the center of each is a fried potato tot. Perhaps because the tot is so tiny and the sweet coating so mighty, the mind jumps to the wrong conclusion.

The idea comes from the new cookbook “Tots!” by Dan Whalen (Workman Publishing, $12.95). Whalen has amassed 50 recipes that use potato tots with all manner of toppings and sauces. His concepts are as simple as bacon-wrapped tots stuck with toothpicks all the way up to Bibimtot — my pick for cleverest name — in which tots stand in for rice, covered with all the usual Korean toppings.

The tots become buns for tiny sliders and bread for grilled-cheese sandwiches. They even become waffles or go into cookie dough. I went for the churros, though, for sheer audacity.

It’s also a very easy recipe, great for entertaining the kids, who can toss the fried tots in the coating. When hot they’re quite tasty (when cold, not really worth the calories). They’re also gluten-free.

Although tots can be baked, the author recommends deep-frying for this recipe. You’ll get the best crisp and the residual oil helps the coating stick.

But if you have a fear of frying (and/or hate using all that oil), pan-frying is a good alternative. Coat a skillet with a layer of oil, enough so your tots won’t stick to the bottom, heat the oil and add the tots, turning them frequently until evenly browned.

TOT CHURROS

Adapted from “Tots!” by Dan Whalen

• 1 pound frozen potato tots, about 45
• Vegetable or peanut oil, for deep-frying

>> Coating:

• 2 tablespoons cinnamon
• 1/2 cup sugar
• Pinch kosher salt

>> Dipping sauce:

• 1/4 cup heavy (whipping) cream
• 1 cup bittersweet chocolate chips
• Pinch kosher salt

Combine dipping sauce ingredients in microwave-safe bowl. Microwave in 30-second intervals until chocolate is melted, stirring between intervals; be careful that chocolate doesn’t burn. Set aside.

Combine coating ingredients in large bowl. Set aside.

Pour oil into a heavy-bottomed pot to a depth of 4 inches. Heat to 375 degrees.

Fry tots until golden and crisp, about 4 minutes.

Using tongs or a slotted spoon, remove tots, tapping side of pot to shake off excess oil. Drop tots into bowl with coating and toss to coat (shaking the bowl works well).

Cool slightly, but serve while still hot, with chocolate sauce for dipping. Serves 5.

Nutritional information unavailable.

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