The fresh flavor of green garlic, milder than more mature garlic bulbs, inspires this pasta dish, which also features another early season favorite, peas. With them, you’ll want the fresh flavors in these three wines.

Make this

Recipe by Joe Gray

Cook 1 pound gemelli pasta in pot of well-salted boiling water until al dente; drain, reserving 1/2 cup cooking water. Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a skillet; add 1 pound shrimp, shelled, deveined. Cook, turning once, until just cooked through, 3 minutes; remove.

Stir in 6 green garlic stalks (or green onions), chopped; 2 cups peas; 1 cup dry white wine; and salt and red pepper flakes to taste. Simmer just until peas are tender, 2 minutes.

Stir in shrimp and drained pasta. Add some pasta water if mixture seems dry. Serves 6.

Drink this

Pairings by sommelier Ryan Arnold of Lettuce Entertain You restaurants, Chicago

>> 2014 La Cana Albarino, Rias Baixas, Spain: The northwestern region of Galicia is the greenest region of Spain, and from there, in Rias Baixas, we get this albarino. It has bright aromas of green apple and apricot, with a mouthwatering acidity that will keep bringing you back for another sip. Lean seafood and the lack of butter in this dish call for a wine that will play a great supporting role but not steal the show.

>> 2014 Matthiasson Tendu White Wine, Yolo County, Calif.: Tendu means “taut” in French, and this is a California interpretation of vermentino (blended with French colombard and chardonnay) that is clean and refreshing. Citrus tones with mineral and herbaceous notes help pull out one of the great early-season ingredients: green garlic, which is harvested in the spring and is more mellow than typical supermarket garlic. Tendu comes in 1-liter bottles and has an easy-access crown cap.

>> 2013 Tommasone Biancolella, Ischia, Italy: The island of Ischia lies off the west coast of Naples, and these grapes were grown at about 600 feet elevation in light, well-drained volcanic soil, giving the wine an almost crunchy texture. There’s a salinity in this bottling, and it carries through the juicy, white peach undertones. This wine will be a nice match for the unique sharpness and texture of the fresh spring peas in this dish.