When it comes to the pursuit of meatloaf, there are certain truths that I hold to be self-evident. Among these: Must add a good amount of liquid (usually milk, for moistness) and something acidic (often tomatoes, to brighten up the flavor). Failure to do so leads to a big, brown blob.
This recipe is a contradiction. Little liquid and no acid. Instead: minced clams and the bit of juice that comes with them.
Karol Yamamoto remembers the recipe as an award winner from The Honolulu Advertiser, from a woman who said she didn’t like any meatloaf except this one. "I, too, do not care for meatloaf, but after trying this recipe, I love it!" Yamamoto wrote.
Alas, she had lost the book containing the recipe.
Aha, "My Best Recipe" is easily found at just about any Hawaii public library. The book, published in 1991 by Bess Press, comprises 65 contributions from Advertiser readers who had won a recipe contest the year before.
Ono Meatloaf came from Lori Kutara, who got the recipe from a friend. Kutara is described as a mother of three and a bank employee with a busy schedule. Her recipe relies on the convenience of an onion soup mix and a can of condensed soup for the gravy, as do many easy meatloaf formulas.
It is the can of clams that sets the recipe apart. The meatloaf does not taste clammy, the little bivalves seeming to provide moisture and a subtle flavor boost.
I searched my store of cookbooks for anything similar and could find only one recipe, in "Meatloaf: Recipes for Everyone’s Favorite," by Maryana Vollstedt (Chronicle Books, 2006). Vollstedt uses ground pork sausage, which comes seasoned and eliminates the need for the soup mix packet. But she credits the clams for the meatloaf’s texture and taste.
I tried the Ono Meatloaf and found it easy to make and quite satisfying. Two tips: Test for doneness about 15 minutes early. If it overcooks it gets tough. And the gravy makes the meatloaf a bit salty. It’s also very thick. I’d water it down or skip it altogether. If you miss the tomatoes, ketchup could be a nice alternative.
ONO MEATLOAF
» 1 (6.5-ounce) can minced clams, with liquid
» 2 slices whole wheat bread, torn in small pieces, about 2 cups
» 1 pound lean ground beef
» 1/2-3/4 pound lean ground pork
» 1/4 cup grated carrot
» 2 stalks celery, chopped
» 2 cloves minced garlic
» 1 large egg, beaten
» 1 (1 ounce) package onion soup mix (common brand is Lipton Recipe Secrets)
» Garlic salt and ground pepper, to taste, optional
Gravy:
» 1 (14.5-ounce) can cream of mushroom soup
» 1 (4-ounce) can sliced mushrooms, with liquid
Heat oven to 375 degrees.
Pour clam liquid over bread pieces in large bowl; toss until liquid is absorbed. Add remaining ingredients and mix, lightly but thoroughly. On a sheet or cake pan, pat meat mixture into a loaf 8-9 inches long. Bake 45 minutes to 1 hour.
To make gravy: Combine mushroom soup with mushrooms and their liquid. Spread over meatloaf in last 15 minutes of baking. Continue baking, basting often, until gravy turns brown and meatloaf is cooked through in center. Serves 6.
Approximate nutritional analysis, per serving: 270 calories, 11 g fat, 4 g saturated fat, 100 mg cholesterol, 1,100 mg sodium, 15 g carbohydrate, 2 g fiber, 2 g sugar, 25 g protein
Nutritional analysis by Joannie Dobbs, Ph.D., C.N.S. Write "By Request," Honolulu Star-Advertiser, 7 Waterfront Plaza, Suite 210, Honolulu, HI 96813; or email requests to bshimabukuro@staradvertiser.com.
