In the Lineup: Ownership aside, Tonggs sea wall belongs to surfers
Nowadays, I also get glares from vacation renters in the waterfront houses. Every time I walk the wall I miss the warm, neighborly local families who lived here before. Read more
In the Lineup
In the Lineup: Female big-wave surfers face a dangerous threshold
In the new big-wave contest world, a gladiator mentality — charging head-down into the biggest, hairiest pit — is glorified and rewarded, even if you wipe out. Read more
In the Lineup: Surfers, others cope with closure of Diamond Head beach path
Bulldozers line the Kuilei Cliffs at Diamond Head Beach Park, where the main beach access way, a paved public footpath, has been plowed up and cut off by a high fence since Feb. 4. Read more
In the Lineup: Why Waimea reigns and deserves respect
Not just anyone could surf Waimea Bay, the arena of titans. Actually, it depends. Read more
In the Lineup: Close call a reminder to not go it alone
Next thing I knew, it was daylight again. I had a sense of dislocation and fear. Read more
In the Lineup: From surf to summit, Diamond Head needs nurture
Squatters have long occupied the hillsides, but over the past two months some have started living in tents on the beach near the public footpath and showers, which are often fouled by excrement. Read more
In the Lineup: Surfers and fish look forward to a new, regenerating year
In winter, although the surf is usually less than zero in the South Shore off-season, I continue my early morning walks to the beach park to check Suis, just in case. Read more
In the Lineup: Champions Carissa Moore, Stephanie Gilmore say Honolua surf was fearsome but fun
Call it fate, or Maui mana: For the second year in a row, the world championship of women’s surfing was decided by the last contest of the tour, the World Surf League’s Beachwaver Maui Pro, held Nov. 26-27 in the natural arena beneath the cliffs at Honolua Bay. Read more
In the Lineup: Keala Kennelly’s titanic wave-riding belies her size
Big-wave champion Keala Kennelly is her own best critic. Read more
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In the Lineup: Big-wave surfers training to be big-time rescuers
On Monday morning, as an epic early winter swell struck the islands’ north and west shores, Brian Keaulana, the Makaha-born big-wave surfer and former City and County of Honolulu lifeguard captain, called back for an interview and apologized for being slightly late. Read more
In the Lineup: Kauai provides solace for loss of bodysurfing buddy
The first thing I recognized, as we arrived on Kauai early on a misty November morning, was the sweet, fresh air. It smelled of ferns and earth, waterfalls and streams. Read more
In the Lineup: Surfers seize solitude when they can
Alone, the sound of the waves breaking seemed louder to me, with different, musical cadences in different waves. Read more
In the Lineup: A peek at books by surfers’ bedsides
Wondering what else surfers were reading, I asked a few local wave riders about the books by their bedsides. Read more
In the Lineup: Epic autumn waves, crowds signal death of off-seasons
Along with climate change that brings more El Nino currents and big waves, we’re witnessing the demise of off-seasons, those quiet times when the islands used to revert back to locals, giving people and other species space to recoup and breathe. Read more
In the Lineup: Surfers hold surprising range of day jobs
A brain surgeon, sewage engineer, a Hawaiian Airlines pilot – you name it. You can meet a wide range of people at the beach, especially when the waves are great. Read more
In the Lineup: Point Panic bodysurfers need to speak out against threats
Now that we were numerous, the bodysurfers were able to get the surfers to leave; they are supposed to stay Ewa of a boundary buoy. Read more
In the Lineup: More than gender determines winners in surf
You get attached to a place where people know you and are more likely to share waves. Read more
In the Lineup: Pro surfer Carissa Moore reflects on waves and life
As she surfed her way to first place at the inaugural Surf Ranch Pro Sept. 9, the three-time world champion’s maneuvers were as flowing and rhythmic as lines of music. Read more
In the Lineup: Lou Rosof is gone, but love lives on
On the last Sunday in August, the evening sun illuminated a folding chair in its usual spot on a front lawn. But Lou Rosof wasn’t there. Read more
In the Lineup: Local surfers, sea creatures and others ride out the storm
In Waikiki, crowds of locals were catching waves and throngs of tourists bobbed in the ocean despite the hurricane warning. Read more
Hurricanes plus age pose challenges for surfers
To be honest, it wasn’t just my sinus infection or the tide that was making me hesitate: It was age. Read more
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