Seeing gluten-free panko on the shelf of a local supermarket recently was a thrill. I found it at Foodland Farms in Ka Makana Ali‘i and considered it my best find. There’s nothing like the light crispness that only panko can provide, yet it’s a texture that’s rare in gluten-free foods.
That bag of Ian’s Gluten Free Panko Breadcrumbs represented possibility.
Sadly, my expectations were short-lived. I tried them out on fresh fish fillets, brushing the fish with some olive oil to help the panko adhere. They didn’t stick very well, but after a short fry in the pan, the panko coating that stayed on the fish was wonderfully tasty, with a nuttiness that added depth to the flavor of the fish. But the crumbs had surpassed crunchy — they were incredibly hard, definitely not for weak teeth.
What else was out there? I couldn’t find alternatives locally so I went online. A quick Amazon search revealed a multitude of options and, after sifting through reviews, I selected two popular, highly rated products: Landau Natural Foods Panko Crumbs and Jeff Nathan Creations Gluten Free Panko Flakes.
Landau’s panko is made simply of potato flakes and starch. The product is light and fine, and resembles a traditional panko crumb. It is flavor-neutral.
Jeff Nathan uses tapioca and potato starches, potato flakes and egg yolks to create a product that doesn’t look at all like panko. These “flakes” are 1/4-inch flat discs that look, taste and have the consistency of cracker crumbs. But “different” doesn’t mean “bad.” Fortified with oil, honey, vinegar and salt, it’s tasty all by itself. It could do double duty as a garnish, sprinkled over a salad or in a bowl of soup.
Both products behaved well as a coating, adhering nicely to the fillets and browning decently in the pan. Both delivered delicious fried fish that was easy to eat, no chipped teeth.
But while Landau’s potato panko crumb was light and fine like traditional panko, it lacked the same crunch, and in fact, with more moisture in thicker fillets, it turned gummy. Jeff Nathan’s sturdy flakes were plenty crunchy, and its own flavor made for a tastier dish.
Upshot: Looks aren’t everything. My vote goes to Jeff Nathan’s panko for its crunch and flavorfulness. But if you want your gluten-free panko dish to look like a traditional panko dish, use Landau’s version. It’s a fair product, and I’ll gladly use up my container.
Having failed to unlock the crunchy virtues of Ian’s panko, I’ve found another use for it: I toss it with a bit of olive oil, quickly brown it in a pan, then add it to casseroles and saucy dishes. The toasty crumbs fortified with oil add body and depth and boost a dish.
BUYING INFO
>> On amazon.com: Landau Natural Foods Panko Crumbs (far left, $8.69 for 7 ounces), Jeff Nathan Creations Gluten Free Panko Flakes ($11.49, 15 ounces), and Ian’s Original Gluten Free Panko Breadcrumbs (right, $7.69, 7 ounces)
>> Local availability: Ian’s is also sold at Foodland Farms at Ka Makana Ali‘i in Kapolei ($5.29, 7 ounces).
“Going Gluten-Free” helps meet the cooking and dining challenges faced by those on wheat-free diets. It runs on the first Wednesday of each month. Send questions and suggestions to Joleen Oshiro, joshiro@staradvertiser.com.
