While setting up a culinary scholarship at Kapiolani Community College several years ago, I had a little disagreement with the school about setting criteria for recipients.

When asked about an acceptable grade point average, I didn’t hesitate to state 3.5, figuring I was being generous by accepting a B+ student.

But I was told that at that level, few would qualify, so I should consider recognizing students with a 2.5, or C+, average. Culinary students have a different kind of intelligence, I learned, making up in creativity what they may lack in book smarts. I conceded and have never been disappointed by the awardees.

I was reminded of this while talking to Nico Chaize about his newest restaurant, Nico’s Upstairs.

The creator of the popular restaurants Nico’s Pier 38 at Honolulu Harbor and Nico’s Kailua, shared his experiences with school while growing up in Lyon, France, and I realized that he, too, had been an unlikely success story.

His reward for good grades was dinner at L’Entrecote, known for one thing, steak frites. But he said it was so rare that his grades met the mark that he had to commit the flavors to memory, particularly that of the restaurant’s green sauce.

Reconstructed from many taste trials, that sauce has become the signature of his new restaurant. Just as at L’Entrecote, it accompanies steak frites with a beautiful herbaceousness of 15 ingredients, from thyme and tarragon, to Dijon mustard to nutmeg, all in perfect balance.

It helps to make steak the star of Nico’s Upstairs, which differs from his local-style menu downstairs in its presentation of dishes from the chef’s native France. Nico’s Upstairs isn’t about froufrou French, but more bistro casual, in the spirit of the original, laid-back Nico’s.

For the steak frites, you have the option of 12-ounce USDA Prime New York steak ($38) or 14-ounce USDA Choice aged rib-eye ($38). Also available is an 8-ounce USDA Choice filet mignon served with scalloped potatoes gratin dauphinois ($36).

To complement the steaks are side- order vegetable options ($8 each) of asparagus, baby bok choy, Brussels sprouts, creamy spinach or a $4 side salad.

Not everything on the menu is French. This wouldn’t be a Nico’s restaurant without Chaize’s signature poke. To amp up the presentation, it’s prepared tableside to taste, at $18 for two. Or you can skip the show and opt to have it Nico’s way with ogo, onions and sesame oil ($11 for 6 ounces).

Nico’s predecessor in this spot, Harbor Restaurant, had a lot of fans who begged Chaize to keep some of their favorites from that restaurant’s menu. He complied by keeping the creamy rich crab and artichoke dip ($14) and Spanish octopus ($16) that is tender, sliced thin and simply served over arugula with a drizzle of olive oil and lemon.

The tour of the Mediterranean continues with Portuguese-style steamed clams ($14) accompanied by thin slices of Portuguese sausage, before we are whisked to French Polynesian Tahiti through a dish of poisson cru ($14) — Honolulu Fish Auction selections (swordfish when I visited) marinated in coconut milk and lime. Then it was back to France with escargots in garlic butter ($13).

In addition to the steak and poke, other stars of the menu include Saumon a L’oseille, a specialty of three-star Michelin restaurant Troisgros in Loire, France. Pan-seared New Zealand Ora King salmon is served with a creamy sorrel sauce. The herb isn’t widely used in Hawaii but has a beautiful, delicate, citrusy quality perfect for this fish.

The other marvel is a thyme-baked Duroc pork chop ($32) finished with rich Brie sauce and also served with gratin dauphinois.

The lunch menu differs from the dinner menu with the addition of more salads and sandwiches, including a cheeseburger ($18), croque-monsieur ($15), and tasty muffuletta ($18) combining a thick pork rillette with assorted charcuterie, provolone and pickled vegetables, all on an artisan ciabatta.

The loco moco ($18) has also been reimagined with fish (mahimahi when I visited) and in place of brown gravy, a creamy bechamel sauce. Locals will find it more bland than what they’re accustomed to, but those trying to cut back on red meat may appreciate the option.

Vying for some of your time on leisurely Sundays is a $32 brunch buffet ($22 for ages 12 and younger), with all the expected standards plus specialties of seafood jambalaya, Marsala creme Anglaise French toast, and brown sugar-rubbed prime rib.

Nadine Kam’s restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Advertiser. Reach her at nkam@staradvertiser.com.