A ubiquitous family venue on Oahu has received a national nod from the culinary magazine Bon Appetit.

Zippy’s was featured in the magazine’s recent compilation article, “America’s Favorite Neighborhood Restaurants,” featuring 80 everyday, go-to restaurants across the country. Now expanded to Maui, and soon, to Las Vegas, Zippy’s certainly meets that mark.

In a heartfelt ode, California-born Elyse Inamine shares her Hawaii-born father’s transformation each year from button-up professional to local boy when her family returns to the islands for their annual visit, and how the restaurant’s ubiquity eventually came to provide her a sense of home.

“We can be anywhere on the island — making the rounds to extended family, hanging out at Kailua Beach — and know that Spam, fried chicken, and chili-slicked spaghetti is always within reach,” she wrote.