Looking back at 2017 and all the wines we’ve tasted, here is a shortlist of some of the most memorable ones that offer value as well as quality. I hope this list will help you find the right wine for your holiday celebrations.
>> White wine: Domaine Skouras “Zoe” (about $13 a bottle): This one is a blend of two indigenous Greek grape varieties grown in southern Greece in the Peloponnese and is fashioned by Giorgio Skouras, one of the winemaking prodigies helping to usher Greek wines onto the world stage. This wine combines enticing perfume with minerality and a crisp, refreshing, palate-cleansing edge, making it ideal for seafood preparations. Instead of picking up another bottle of whatever white wine you regularly drink, give this one a try. You will be glad you did.
>> Red wine: Marcel Lapierre “Raisins Gaulois” (about $17): This is a red for those looking for an absolutely delicious, light-weight, food-friendly and gulpable selection, courtesy of Lapierre, a true grape-growing and winemaking icon. He changed the game through his principles of uber sustainability both in the vineyard and the winery. Lapierre died several years ago but opened the door to a new approach to the craft of winemaking, which his son, Mathieu, still carries out at the domaine. His “Raisins Gaulois” bottling is what he would serve at his dinner table, and it is well-suited to holiday meals.
>> Rose: Domaine de Fontsainte Corbieres “Gris de Gris” Rose (about $19): Roses are on trend, and there’s good reason, since the best ones simply make food taste better. Here is one worth seeking out, especially for holiday season fare. I was introduced to this wine in 1990 and found it to be wonderfully delicious. The amazing thing is that the quality has improved even though its price increase has been modest. The Fontsainte estate vineyards were cleared and planted by the Romans, way back when. This wine continues to prove that they knew what they were doing.
BUBBLIES
>> Gregoletto Prosecco “Sui Lieviti” (about $24): Over the past 10 years, Italian prosecco has witnessed a meteoric growth in popularity and today is one of the top wine imports into the U.S. Makes sense — it’s tasty, remarkably light, crisp and refreshing, all at a great price. The down side is the growing number of mediocre renditions that focus on price point more than quality. But a true star of the category is Gregoletto. Its “sui lieviti” (additional aging time on its lees) bottling represents the history of this region before the Champagne method was invented. This is as good and authentic as prosecco gets. I love its tastiness and uplifting personality, ideal for the holidays. If you want a bottle, act quickly — highly prized wines like this one aren’t easy to come by.
>> Marc Hebrart Blanc de Blancs “Premier Cru” (about $52): This truly artisan Champagne house has been recommended to me frequently over the years because of its standout quality, especially given the price. It is among “grower” Champagnes, meaning the winemakers also own and farm the vineyards. This usually also means limited availability. Well, the Blanc de Blancs has finally arrived in the islands. It is Marc Hebrart’s exclusive chardonnay-based bottling, from two grand cru vineyards and one premier cru. Aged on its lees for three years for complexity, this wine has refinement, purity and minerality — a wonderful way to say goodbye to 2017 and hello to 2018.
TOP DISCOVERY OF 2017
>> 2015 Sucette Grenache (about $55): I love the perfume of this wine, its lushness and its charm. What really won me over, however, is its warmth, old vine-ness and true savoriness. The grapes are from 90-plus-year-old vines grown in Vine Vale, Australia, under the watchful eye of superstar master sommelier Richard Betts. This wine lies somewhere between pinot noir and cabernet in terms of body, weight and mojo.
END OF AN ERA
>> 2015 Dr. F Weins Prum Riesling Spatlese “Wehlener Sonnenuhr” (about $35): This producer has been one of my absolute favorites out of Germany for several decades. The wines masterfully combine minerality, old vine-ness, precision and balance with deliciousness and remarkable lightness on the palate. I have been continually amazed by each year’s release and how the quality somehow continues to elevate. I was sad to hear that 2015 will be winemaker-owner Bert Selbach’s last vintage. Without heirs to carry the torch, and given the grueling task of being a one-man show, it’s understandable that Selbach wanted to retire. Still, I am heartbroken that day has come. So, to all you wine lovers who want to keep something special for your kids and grandkids, grab a few bottles while you can.
Chuck Furuya is a master sommelier and a partner in the DK Restaurants group. Follow his blog at chuckfuruya.com.
