Premium pick | Orchids
Well known for its popular Sunday brunch — which boasts tables of endless choices from ultra-fresh sashimi and made-to-order omelets to an impressive carving table and mouthwatering desserts — Orchids at the Halekulani has become a special-occasion favorite of mine for an elegant, open-air dinner overlooking the ocean.
Originally from Genoa, Italy, chef Christian Testa, who took the helm in October 2016, has infused the menu with coastal Italian flavors.
At a recent dinner, we started with the paper-thin prime beef filet, arugula salad, Parmesan and black truffle shavings with a truffle aioli, and the expertly plated onaga carpaccio with bright lemony dressing and served with Ho Farm tomatoes, chives and sliced jalapeno. An inventive entree of lasagnette featured a seafood-forward construction of freshly made pasta, Kahuku shrimp, scallops and avocado.
Of course, dinner at Orchids wouldn’t be complete without a scrumptious slice of the signature coconut cake. Impeccable service coupled with beautiful views of Diamond Head made the evening just about perfect.
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Halekulani hotel, 2199 Kalia Road, Honolulu; 923-2311. Breakfast, lunch, dinner, afternoon tea, Sunday brunch. $$$$
Silk Road Cafe
A colleague came into work earlier this year raving about a new place he had tried. “It’s Uzbek,” he said. I raised an eyebrow. “Go on. …” After hearing him wax poetic over the osh (or plov), a rice pilaf with beef, carrots, chickpeas and raisins, I knew I had to go.
Owners Akrombek “Aki” Yuldashev and his wife, Mamura Yuldasheva, pour their heart and soul into their cooking. The osh was delicious, but its gem of a side dish grabbed my taste buds. The markov salad with tender strands of carrots is seasoned with vinegar, salt, coriander and other spices. It’s addictive. As are the somsas, baked flaky pastries with savory fillings. I gravitate to the squash and potato varieties. Do not bypass the garlicky tomato sauce served on the side.
Other must-try items: goluptsi, hearty beef and cabbage rolls; and lagman, a hot soup of beef and vegetables served over hand-pulled noodles.
My sweet tooth is satisfied with their not-too-sweet medovik, or honey cake. Yuldasheva puts her own twist on the classic Russian cake. Honey buttercream is sandwiched between layers of melt-in-your-mouth cake.
All their foods offer a rich introduction to the culture of Uzbekistan. But Yuldasheva says their customers are key. “People here are so welcoming about trying different foods,” she said. “It gives us the energy to keep going.” I, for one, am glad they do.
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212 Merchant St.; 585-8212. Lunch. $
Breadshop
Growing up in New York, good, crusty bread was a regular guest at my family’s dinner table. That slightly chewy, dense but soft bite complemented whatever was being served. So I was thrilled when I found craft baker Chris Sy’s bread that evoked those flavor memories.
I’ll admit it: I’ve been “bread-stalking” Sy for a while. I’d quietly pick up a loaf at The Pig & The Lady’s farmers market booth or pop by a pop-up selling his oven-baked magic. Now in a permanent spot in Kaimuki, Sy turns out daily his standard loaves — City (a “white” sourdough), Country (a semi-whole wheat sourdough), brioche and focaccia, along with semolina, ciabatta and a rye. “Fancy flatbreads,” slices of focaccia with a variety of topping combos such as potato, sage and comte (a French cheese), or zucchini and mint, are a tempting “eat-in-the-car” snack. His sweet buns turn brioche dough into little sugar-topped delights.
I highly recommend a monthly bread subscription; it guarantees you’ll have a fresh loaf each week with your name on it. And if the loaves sell out, you’ll feel like you’re winning at life as you walk away with your reserved bread tucked under your arm.
While I enjoy all of his breads, my current favorite is the Country. I’m sure that will change, which is great because, Sy says, opening the bakery was just the start of the journey. “Breadshop is intended as an exploration of bread and we are really excited for people to be able to experience that with us.” So go explore.
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3408 Waialae Ave., Kaimuki; breadsbybreadshop.com (no phone). Closed Mondays and Tuesdays. $
