Kokoro-Tei in Moiliili blows away conventional expectations about bentos.
The typical bento, eaten at room temperature because it was prepared hours ago, is among Hawaii’s most popular grab-and-go meals. Sadly, the food is often no longer at its prime, the breading on anything fried is not crispy, the rice a tad dry, the sesame seeds soft. Also, the takuan has stained whatever it was laid upon, so those who don’t like the neon yellow- green pickled radish have to eat around that area.
A fresh bento, made to order, is a game-changer.
Kokoro-Tei
2424 S. Beretania St.
951-5656;
kokorotei.com/en
Hours: 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 4:30 to 7 p.m Mondays through Saturdays; 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sundays
Last orders: Taken 15 minutes before closing
Prices: $4 to $13
Parking: Free in adjacent lot, or on the street
The breading is warm and crispy around an oyster that’s still tender and hot. A little foil cup holds the tartar sauce so it doesn’t cause sogginess. The kuro-goma, or black sesame seeds, sprinkled on the rice still have crunch, and the rice is warm and just right.
The Japanese spoken in the open kitchen is a clue that the food is prepared Japanese-style, versus local- Japanese-style, so for instance, Kokoro-Tei teriyaki isn’t as sweet as at other restaurants. It is delicious.
Plus, you can ask them to hold the takuan.
About the business: Kokoro-Tei marks its sixth anniversary in August. It is a sister-business to Sushi Izakaya Shinn on South Beretania Street, and both are operated by Real Japan Ltd. Partner Hideki Yamada runs the kitchen at Kokoro-Tei, which employs 13 people. The small restaurant recently began opening for Sunday lunch service.
How to order: Calling ahead is a good idea at this busy spot. View the possibilities on the restaurant’s website, keeping in mind the prices shown are subject to change. Once there you can pick up a paper takeout menu. It will be updated next month to reflect higher food costs, Yamada said.
Credit card purchases require a minimum total of $10.
What to order: The Kokoro-Tei menu feeds all appetites, from small to mega, from about $4 to $13.
The basic nori bento is rice topped with shoyu katsuo bushi (thinly shaved bonito flakes), nori, a piece of freshly fried hoki (mild- flavored white fish) and tempura-fried chikuwa, a style of fish cake. Larger options offer boneless karaage (fried) chicken or grilled salmon.
Medium bentos also offer a range of choices and prices, while plate-lunch style offerings have larger portions. The largest meal is the Mega Bento, with two entree selections, a larger rice portion and side dishes.
Hamburger steak comes with a meaty demi-glace or wafu dressing (a soy sauce-based sauce), as well as a rotating selection of vegetable-based sozai, or side dishes.
Other choices: ginger pork, tonkatsu, rib-eye steak, yakiniku, salmon, buri (yellowtail), saba (mackerel), curry and fried shrimp or oysters.
A vegetarian bento comes with brown rice or sekihan (rice with beans) and as many as eight vegetable side dishes that could include kinpira gobo, kabocha, eggplant, nishime, pickled vegetables or a hard-cooked egg.
Extras that can be ordered as side dishes include crispy fried calamari rings and creamy Japanese-style potato salad with finely sliced Japanese cucumber and carrot.
Brown rice is available for an extra 50 cents to $1.
Grab and go: Kokoro-Tei is built for takeout, with seating for only four to six people. It is located in a building that also houses Domino’s Pizza and Teddy’s Bigger Burgers. Approaching on Beretania Street, you will pass the Japanese Cultural Center and Anna O’Brien’s pub. If you miss the entrance to the parking lot, turn right on Isenberg Street and find another parking entrance. You might also find free parking on Beretania.
