Hilo sits between the sea, the often snow-capped summit of Mauna Kea and the smoldering Kilauea volcano. Twice ravaged by tsunamis in the last century, this nostalgic harbor town boasts both black sand beaches and waterfalls. While Hawaii’s sunnier destinations have suffered from overcrowding and increasingly steep prices, Hilo remains rural at heart — low-key and affordable. Rain nourishes Hilo’s fruit and flower farms, and the fishing boats return daily, laden with snapper and aku. With access to such bounty, it’s no wonder local chefs have captured national recognition. A new speakeasy and wine bar have enlivened Hilo’s nightlife, and this year the East Hawai‘i Cultural Center hosts the Hawai‘i Triennial, a prestigious statewide contemporary art exhibit. Each spring, the world’s best hula dancers converge here to compete for the crown at the Merrie Monarch Festival. Equally thrilling: During Kilauea’s sporadic eruptions — it’s in a particularly active phase now — you can watch molten lava fill the caldera at Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park.
Friday
2 p.m. Visit a live volcano
Drive 45 minutes southeast from Hilo to immerse yourself in primordial forest and steaming lava tubes at Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park (vehicle pass, $35). Browse the Volcano Art Center, then cross the street for the jaw-dropping view of the crater. Wander along the caldera’s rim while listening to the wild songs of the Hawaiian honeycreepers, some of Earth’s rarest birds.
7:30 p.m. Dine to Kilauea’s glow
If Kilauea is active, you’ll want to eat dinner at the Rim, where you can watch the caldera glow while sampling seared Kona kanpachi and local rib-eye. Otherwise, head back into town to Moon and Turtle (reserve ahead). Chef Mark Pomaski worked at Roy’s in Waikiki and Nobu 57 in New York City before returning home to open this humble yet elegant restaurant. The ever-changing menu — which earned Pomaski a 2022 James Beard nomination — might include whole fried opelu (mackerel) with green olive tapenade ($35), Okinawan sweet potato gnocchi or dumplings stuffed with local ahi and octopus mousseline.
10 p.m. Visit a speakeasy
For an adventurous nightcap just around the corner, follow the “Silly Goose” sign down the stairs to the Hidden Nene. Hilo’s coolness quotient quietly spiked when Charlene Moe opened this speakeasy in 2023. The menu includes libations such as Shoyu a Good Time — Tenjaku gin garnished with wasabi oil and a flaming skewer of raw tuna ($16). Delectable coconut meringue foam floats atop an alcohol-fueled riff on Key lime pie ($16).
Saturday
8:30 a.m. Breakfast with Paul
At Paul’s Place Cafe, reservations are necessary to snag one of eight seats tucked into the staircase landing at Pakalana Inn. Paul Cubio cooks each dish to order using ingredients collected from neighboring markets. The fish sandwich features ripe Kamuela tomatoes, crunchy coleslaw and a juicy filet of ono reeled in that morning ($25). His waffles ($16) have a cult following.
10 a.m. Shop local
Downtown Hilo’s shops include aloha wear designer Sig Zane’s flagship boutique that opened on Kamehameha Avenue in 1985. For stylish surf trunks, visit his athletic-wear spinoff Paliku Surf on Kalakaua Street. Stock up on Japanese linens and housewares at Dragon Mama, and score a finely woven lauhala hat at Hana Hou Hilo. The owner, Michele Zane-Faridi (master weaver and Zane’s sister), curates an impeccable collection of locally made clothing, cosmetics and gifts.
Noon Pack a picnic basket
For lunch, enjoy a picnic at Liliuokalani Gardens. Start packing your basket at the Hilo Farmers Market on Mamo Street. Vendors offer everything from fresh fruit to tamales and pad thai. Satisfy your sweet tooth at Puna Chocolate Co. or Two Ladies Kitchen, the beloved mochi shop. Continue on to Suisan Fish Market, the family-owned seafood supplier that has served this community since 1907, for fresh poke by the pound or with rice and seaweed salad. Stroll the gardens to Alii Ice, a 1950s-style ice cream parlor selling paletas ($3) made with local mango and li hing mui.
2 p.m. See art, history and stars
Rich in history and culture, Hilo is a community of survivors. Visit the Pacific Tsunami Museum ($15 admission), housed in an art deco building from 1930, to hear firsthand accounts of the 1946 and 1960 tsunamis. Two blocks away, the equally grand former courthouse is now the East Hawai‘i Cultural Center, which hosts the Hawai‘i Triennial through April, with artists exploring themes of belonging, ecological threats and Native Hawaiian celestial navigation. Dive deeper into the science of the navigation at the ‘Imiloa Astronomy Center ($26 admission). The planetarium on the University of Hawaii-Hilo campus features kid-friendly, interactive exhibits.
5:30 p.m. Enjoy Japanese fare
Chef Louis Pauole started as a dishwasher at Miyo’s Restaurant & Izakaya Bar before buying the longtime Hilo staple in 2019. His smoked sashimi with ponzu jelly cubes and egg toast topped with salmon roe and cured yolk shavings earned him a fan base. Now Pauole and his sous chefs prepare thoughtful Japanese fare two ways — bento boxes ($25) in the restaurant and sophisticated small plates ($15 and up) in the izakaya. Both benefit from the bar’s large menu of craft cocktails and high-end sake.
7 p.m. Catch a show
When the Palace Theater opened in 1925, Hilo residents flocked to watch silent films with soundtracks supplied by a mighty pipe organ. Silent movies are still fun here, accompanied by the old organ. But concerts are even better. Check the calendar for Brother Noland, Paula Fuga or Jake Shimabukuro (tickets start at $10, depending on the performance).
9:30 p.m. Sip a cocktail
Seats fill up quickly at the Temple, an intimate bar with wine and craft beer flowing from the taps. The bartender’s pitch-perfect cocktails include Through the Looking Glass, a mix of gin, elderflower liqueur and passion fruit juice topped with a cloudy froth of egg white and lavender buds ($16). Nearly every dish on the tapas menu spotlights local produce — commendable in a state that imports 90% of its food.
Sunday
9 a.m. Tour a fruit farm
Drive a mile north of downtown Hilo to O.K. Farms. This large family-owned farm supplies most of Hawaii’s fresh lychee, in addition to rambutan, longan, heart of palm and cacao. The farm hugs the Wailuku River and the tour ($65 adult, $55 child) includes a unique view of Rainbow Falls.
11:30 a.m. Watch surfers
Unless you’re a veteran surfer, Honolii Beach Park is view-only. Parking is tight on Kahoa Street, but with patience you can squeeze into a spot. The large lawn beside the lifeguard station is a lovely picnic spot. Honolii Stream empties into the ocean here, and while the water beneath the bridge appears idyllic, it’s roiled by strong currents.
Noon Check out a rainbow
Cruise up to Wailuku River State Park to see the colorful arc for which Rainbow Falls is named. As the river thunders over the mouth of a cave, a rainbow forms in its mist. Stop at Hilo Public Library on the way there. The midcentury building is fronted by two sacred and storied stones. The upright Pinao Stone once marked the entrance to an ancient heiau (temple). The celebrated Naha Stone predicted the rise of Kamehameha the Great in the 18th century. According to prophesy, whoever could lift the colossal slab — nearly 7,000 pounds — would gain the power to conquer Hawaii. Kamehameha reportedly heaved up the stone before waging war to unify the islands under one rule.
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