I’m finally writing about sake. Why did it take me so long to write about wine made from rice? Although sake is referred to as “rice wine,” its brewing style more closely resembles beer.

In beer production, a starch must be converted to fermentable sugars before the fermentation process begins. In wine, these sugars are naturally present and ready to be fermented. Though sake does share some similarities to wine, it should be considered a separate category. While I practice a habit of consuming sake when cooking or before dinner is served, the best way to highlight the beverage is alongside food. Obviously, sake sings alongside almost all Japanese cuisine. In some regions, the older sake houses even went so far as to develop their unique style specifically for the local ingredients and dishes of their time.

On a recent visit to Mitch’s Fish Market and Sushi Bar (thankfully still BYOB), I was reminded that there is no greater pairing for sashimi than sake. Think of the sake as the addition of rice flavor in liquid form, the chill of the sake complementing the temperature of the cool fish. I previously challenged that rice-on-rice effect was a palate overload, but since bringing HEAVENSAKE to my omakase, I’m beginning to become a believer.

HEAVENSAKE appeals to the sommelier in me. This project, spearheaded by Regis Camus, renowned cellarmaster of some of the greatest houses in Champagne for nearly 30 years, is about innovation with respect to tradition. Camus works with historic sake producers to blend sake from different rice polishing ratios and strains with one caveat: the unique blends must be clearly distinct from any of the sake houses existing products. The result is a zippy, spring flower-like sake that instantly appeals to the wine palate.

HEAVENSAKE, Junmai Daiginjo Orange
This collaboration with Urakasumi, a nearly 300-year-old brewery known for its unique yeast strain, is rich and dry with a silky texture. It has a complex umami nose but a hint of sweet Japanese musk melon that I would catch a waft of walking through department store basements but could never afford to buy. Drink it chilled with anything Japanese out of a white wine glass.
Cost: $65/bottle.

HEAVENSAKE, Junmai Daiginjo Noir
Winner of the “Best Sake” award at the San Francisco International Wine Competition two years in a row, this is a blend of the popular Dassai 23 and Dassai 39, a brewery in Yamaguchi known for being solely devoted to Junmai daiginjo styles (read, best of the best). This is just as complex as its orange counterpart, but lighter and more subtle with more floral components. Drink it chilled in a white wine glass and go all-out with some caviar.
Cost: $92/bottle.

HEAVENSAKE, Sake Baby!
A touch sweeter and with a bit more left on the rice grain than the colored labels, this bottling is perfect for an uncomplicated night in with pizza (especially white pie with large chunks of mozzarella), pasta (especially seafood) and everything in between.
Cost: $20/bottle.

Chris Ramelb is an award-winning master sommelier, and director of education and restaurant sales manager of Southern Glazer’s Wine & Spirits of Hawaii. Follow him on Instagram (@masterisksomm).