If I gave you a handful of guesses to name the world’s most-grown wine grape, I’d predict it wouldn’t be too long before you mentioned the correct answer: cabernet sauvignon. Its full-body and dark fruit is in fashion with today’s palate, it’s easy to pronounce (I’ve given up asking if people mean “cabernet Franc” when I’m asked for a “cab”), and fairly easy to grow. Perhaps the main reason it is the most grown grape in the world is it can command the highest price relative to other grapes. If you were to purchase a cabernet sauvignon from a well-known region, you’d expect your wallet to be even lighter.
Generally, the opposite is true for grapes that aren’t everyday names. It’s much more comfortable to (like Left Eye) stick to the rivers and the lakes that you’re used to and pay a slight premium than to bet your hard-earned cash that you’ll like to drink something you’ve never heard of from a place you’ve never been. I’m here to tell you those waterfalls are worth chasing.
Earlier this month during an event at 1 Hotel Hanalei Bay, I selected wines to pair with Top Chef All-Stars: Los Angeles season 17 winner, Melissa King’s “Asian charcuterie board” and raw seafood bar. Not only did these delicious wines serve to inspire experimentation across the various textures and flavors through the gorgeous spread, but they were also conversational pieces, as the majority of the wines were unknown to each guest. Some guests even took pictures of their favorite bottle and told me they were going to track it down when they returned home to add to a part of their regular rotation. The best part was that they were surprised at how inexpensive the wines were. While there’s value to be had in scouring the corners of the wine world for grapes that haven’t hit the mainstream, discovering a new go-to bottle and learning about a new culture through its wine might be the real reward.
Punta Crena, Lumassina Frizzante, Liguria, Italy
Punta Crena is a winery with deep roots and ancient knowhow. It has existed in Liguria, a picturesque corner of Italy, for more than 500 years. There, it champions indigenous grapes (in some cases being the sole producer of these rare varieties) like this Lumassina grape, made in a slightly sparkling version (frizzante). It is believed the grape’s name was derived from a Ligurian form of the Italian lumache meaning “snails” because this wine was the perfect pairing for a traditional Ligurian snail dish. This works well with a raw seafood bar, marinated olives or any local pupu. Try it with pesto as the Ligurians lay claim to inventing the stuff. This is crisp and refreshing in its lemony zing, with pretty alpine flowers on the nose.
Cost: $21/bottle.
Punta Crena, Rossese, Liguria, Italy
All of Punta Crena’s vineyards are located less than a mile away from the sea. In some instances, there are measurable levels of salt on the grape during harvest, which lends itself perfectly to the cuisine and climate of Hawaii.
At only 12% alcohol, this obscure red is unobtrusive enough to handle just about anything at the table, but because of its savory herbs, dried rose and salinity it might be your new go-to wine for charcuterie board.
Serve chilled.
Cost: $28/bottle.
Chris Ramelb is an award-winning master sommelier, and director of education and restaurant sales manager of Southern Glazer’s Wine & Spirits of Hawaii. Watch him on the “Wine & …” podcast, and follow him on Instagram (@masterisksomm).
