It’s hard to pretend that we aren’t all still feeling the effects of the pandemic.

However, a sit-down brunch, with some wine to go with it, feels like a significant victory in the war on a return to normalcy.

But what makes a good brunch wine exactly? First, food-friendliness is key. A wine with little to no oak, and a lower alcohol content (chill out, the sun is up for another six hours) will usually play nicely with the entirety of the spread.

Texture is important as well. Being that both of my selections this week are carbonated (Bottex, Bugey-Cerdon, “La Cueille”; Lambert de Seyssel, “Petit Royal”), my colleague Tim Golden (Crave‘s resident “On Tap in Hawaii” columnist) will have some ammo in the ongoing debate on “beer vs. wine,” to which I say that there isn’t any rule on enjoying both.

Bubbles and brunch are synonymous for a reason. Carbonation will act as a palate reset in between bites and works beautifully with creamy egg dishes or anything fried — both of which are brunch staples at any local eatery.

Finally, it is important to have a wine in the arsenal that matches the sugar content of the food, if you choose to indulge in sweeter parts of the meal — and shame on you if you don’t.

Brunch is back, and it feels like a resurgence is near for my beloved food and beverage ohana. As we continue through 2021 and beyond, I hope you are able take up your forks and glasses and join me in the fight.

Lambert de Seyssel, “Petit Royal”

Molette or Altesse aren’t household names, but being that grapes can compose a wine this good suggests that they should be. Fans of the traditional Champagne style will enjoy the bready, yeasty notes — which is also the reason the supplier’s website suggests salty toasts as a pairing.

It’s aged in the chilly alpine cellars in Savoie, France, for about three years in total before release, which further integrates the fine bubbles, and makes $20 per bottle seem like a steal. Talk about a Champagne palate at a Prosecco price. Oahu residents can purchase at R. Field Wine Company or Kalapawai Market, while Maui supporters include Wailea Wine and Spago Restaurant at Four Seasons Resort Maui.

Bottex, Bugey-Cerdon, “La Cueille”

Pink, floral, and slightly sweet, Patrick Bottex’s Bugey-Cerdon is the epitome of breakfast bubbles.

The only reason why it is not on every wine list in Hawaii is because of its scarcity (sadly, a paltry 3,000 cases are made each year).

It gets its sparkle from a method that predates Champagne, called the “ancestral method” (proudly displayed on the label) or the “rural method,” and is therefore liable to shower you unless opened when it is ice cold — which is exactly how it should be enjoyed.

Clocking in at only 8% alcohol by volume (which is barely more than some beers on the market) it begs to be consumed in mass quantity, with all foods, at all times of day — though my favorite pairing is a teri cheeseburger with caramelized onions.

You can find it at Fujioka’s (for under $25) or drink it up with a sunset view at Sky Waikiki.

My only ask, though, is that you leave some for me.

Award-winning sommelier Chris Ramelb is director of education and restaurant sales manager of Southern Glazer’s Wine & Spirits of Hawaii. Keep up with him on video series “Wine & …” and Instagram (@masterisksomm). “Pour Choices” runs every fourth Wednesday.