Spring is almost here. While we may not experience the same seasonal changes as many parts of the world, the season can still mark a time of change in what we eat — and what we drink alongside.
For me, spring connotes a rebirth, a coming out of coldness, early sundowns and frequent rains. It ends a time of hibernation-like, stay-at-home behavior.
So I like to pour more uplifting, joyous wines, especially whites and rosés. It’s their time. For reds, I think of lighter, fresher, more juicy-fruited wines, low in tannins. More often than not these are country- style reds, the kind frequently served in Europeancountry-side cafes in simple decanters.
So, here we go with a few recommendations, keeping value in mind.
>> Sommariva Prosecco “Conegliano- Valdobbiadene” (roughly $23 a bottle): The prosecco grape variety is indigenous to the Veneto region of northeast Italy, near Venice. In those rolling hills, especially in the finest enclave of Conegliano Valdobbiadene, some very unique, light, airy and wonderfully delicious bubblies are produced from the grape.
Prosecco has skyrocketed in popularity — and therefore recognizability — and is offered today at most retail stores, even the big-box ones. What does that mean? Lots of mediocre renditions also come from the area. A simple analogy would be understanding the difference between a fast-food burger and the thick, juicy one my grandmother used to cook. Get it?
Sommariva is the real deal! It’s from a small, family-owned operation that uses an heirloom, heritage vine of prosecco. The resulting sparkler has tiny, scintillating bubbles that are so invigorating and thirst-quenching. It’s so airy on the palate that it whispers its presence.
>> 2018 Folk Machine “White Light” ($17): Few people would take a second look at this white wine on a retail store shelf. The bottle and label are so simple and ordinary, the bottle can get lost even though it is in plain sight. Still, this California wine needs to have a voice, especially when considering uplifting whites for springtime gulping. Winemaker Kenny Likitprakong is immensely talented, and quite artistic in his thinking. He doesn’t follow any standard operating procedures or any recipes, he just creates, and in a most simple, unpretentious way.
This is his table white — made to enjoy when hanging out with friends. Serve it at lunch or lighter suppers, to wash down the food and freshen the palate with each gulp. For spring, many winemakers release sauvignon blanc-based wines. That’s like creating music with only a trumpet. Wouldn’t the sound be better with some trombone, saxophone or perhaps a piano? Here is how Likitprakong reveals his artistic side: to sauvignon blanc he adds three other white grape varieties to create a unique and upbeat “sound.”
>> Elvio Tintero Rosato ($15): A very light- colored, impressively light-weighted pink-ster from northwestern Italy. The Tinterofamily has owned and operated a rather remote, out-of-the-mainstream vineyard and winery since 1900. This tasty, lively and uplifting wine has quite a perky, flirtatious fizz, which just brings happiness to the palate. This Italian rosé certainly proved its food friendliness when we paired it with dishes from Helena’s Hawaiian Food. Get it while you can!
>> 2018 Costa de Oro Pinot Noir “Santa Barbara” ($25): Dark-fruited, flamboyant California pinot noirs are gaining acclaim and winning spots on our retail store shelves, due to expanding knowledge in vine selection, better grape-growing, winemaking insights and improved equipment — plus the growing frequency of sun-drenched vintages.
But the Costa de Oro is very different from other Californians. This pinot provides a different perspective on what pinot noir can be. I love its wonderful transparency, lighter color and weight — how seamless, refined and balanced it is. It is ideal for springtime enjoyment, as well as for the hotter summer months.
The grapes are from an old-heritage, heirloom pinot noir vine, referred to as a Martini clone, grown on a wind-pounded mesa with meager sandy soils. This wine is a perennial favorite as it really is about pure enjoyment and wonderful drinkability.
Chuck Furuya is a master sommelier and co-host of the weekly podcast “Chuck Furuya Uncorked.” Follow his blog at chuckfuruya.com.