At my house, we eat both local and Korean- style kimchi, but we are especially enamored of the deep flavors and lively spices of Korean-style versions.

Why the umami punch in those preparations? Consider that most start with a hearty helping of gochugaru (red chile pepper powder or flakes), saeujeot (fermented or brined shrimp), fish sauce, kelp stock and garlic. That combo is plenty tasty in itself. Many recipes also include items such as Korean pear, shredded daikon, ginger and green onion. Ingredients are combined with a potato or rice starch base that turns the seasoning into a paste.

Vegetables are salted for a few hours, then placed in a big bowl. Whole-leaf veggies are “hand painted” with the paste (the technique is similar to applying hair dye), while chopped veggies are tossed with the seasoning.

Some folks like freshly made kimchi, when veggies are still crisp and fresh; others prefer it after a few days of fermentation. Either way, the flavors are delicious.

Since we don’t make our own, my daughter and I pore over selections at Palama Super Market and H Mart, our usual kimchi spots. Recently, we tried seven versions for this list. Two selections we enjoyed most — green onion and daikon — were made in-house.Here are our Top 3 picks:

>> Palama Super Market green onion kimchi (1-pound container, $5.99): This fresh, tasty kimchi was by far our favorite. Onions were crunchy, and we could clearly taste the shrimp in the salty sauce. Both paired well with a medium- level spice to balance the flavor of the onion perfectly. But don’t mistake balance for a lack of boldness. This kimchi is a flavor bomb — a vibrant 10 on the umami scale.

>> H Mart daikon kimchi (roughly 1-1/2 pound container, $5.99): There was artistry behind this offering, with every flavor element exquisitely managed. Fresh, crunchy daikon cubes were the canvas for a recipe with subtle sourness, a light peppery flavor, moderate saltiness and a medium heat that showed its presence but did not tax the palate. Collectively, the flavors rounded out the bitterness of the daikon and turned it into yet one more facet of deliciousness. This kimchi is so well done that it can be enjoyed alone, no rice necessary.

>> Mustard Leaf Kimchi, Surasang brand (14-ounce vacuum sealed bag, $4.99): Though it came all the way from Korea, a freshness pack inside the bag somehow maintained the crunch in the stems of this vegetable, common in Korea. Mustard leaf isn’t the spicy, sturdy mustard cabbage we know in Hawaii; instead, it has long stems with large, pliant leaves. This kimchi is assertively sour, which complements the earthy, peppery taste of the mustard leaf that shines through. It adds new flavors to the usual Hawaii kimchi repertoire. And for lovers of heat, best of all is a moderate spiciness that develops in intensity slowly, then lingers.

Traditionally, mustard leaf kimchi is tied into whole-leaf bundles, and this one came packaged that way. Before eating, we chopped the bundles into bite-sized pieces.

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