For someone whose livelihood depends on selecting the “perfect” bottle for any given occasion, I’m always caught off guard when someone asks me to recommend a “red blend.” While asking for a “red blend” isn’t completely useless (now I know that you’d prefer red wine to white wine), it doesn’t necessarily help your sommelier. Believe it or not, our goals are aligned. You want a great bottle of wine, and I want to select a great bottle of wine for you.
It’s not your fault. Each year, billions of dollars are spent fueling the growth of the “red blend” category. Many of these blends have become more akin to brands than wines and neither grape(s) nor place of origin appear on their labels. That’s not necessarily a bad thing, but there are some cases in which a brand becomes so successful that many steps must be taken to meet demand and ensure consistency.
Sometimes, I’ll find myself in situations where I am faced with drinking those types of wines, much like there are times when I succumb to cravings of chicken nuggets at a particular fast-food chain — as my budget, time and self-respect wane. During those times, I’d rather not know how the wine and nuggets are made.
What is the main factor for determining the quality of a red blend? Is it the type of grapes and the careful selection of the percentage of each, the reputation of the winery/brand, or the vineyards from which they are sourced? While those factors matter, I’d argue that the most important ingredient is intent. Unfortunately, that can’t be easily measured and printed on a wine label.
Matt Trevisan, winemaker, farmer and owner of Linne Calodo, is as obsessive as any wine professional I’ve ever met. His celebrated winery is nestled in Willow Creek AVA, in a cool section of Paso Robles, California.
A plethora of various aging and fermentation vessels inscribed with symbols, timestamps and the occasional cartoon are filled with a variety of different grapes, awaiting the moment they morph from individual components into a veritable ensemble.
Matt’s relationship with the land is also something to behold. Proud of the vineyards he owns and farms himself, he follows a paradoxical approach of minimalist intervention towards Mother Nature, while maintaining a meticulous program once the grapes are harvested. The result is critically acclaimed wines that have become one of the flag bearers for the region.
Linne Calodo
Sticks and Stones, 2022
This wine exemplifies Linne Calodo’s commitment to finding the “perfect” blend. While Sticks and Stones always features Grenache, the exact percentages haven’t been replicated since its inception. The 2022, which just landed, is 68% Grenache, 22% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre. This is a mouth-coating wine that initially smells like a raspberry and vanilla frappuccino, and leads to deeper, toasty flavors. It’s a show-stopper and a meal in itself.
Cost: $95/bottle
Slacker
Stereotype
Slacker is a new project, and made to the same exacting standards as Linne Calodo. The grapes that didn’t find a place at LC are tasted and blended with the same care and intent. The Stereotype closely resembles Sticks and Stones, with Grenache and friends leading the way. I could write a series of similar notes, but that’s not the point of these kinds of wine. Just pop and pour alongside friends and know that you’re getting a rich, bold red at an unbelievable value. It’s usually $55 a bottle, but I’ve recently seen it served by the glass at Hualani’s Restaurant at Timbers Kauai (among the first properties in the country to be awarded a MICHELIN Key) for a steal.
Cost: $55/bottle.
