It’s hard to believe that this holiday season is winding to a close. This time of year, I reflect on what a privileged life I have lived; the places I’ve visited and the people I’ve befriended.
I also realize how thankful I am for wine, not just because it contributes to my livelihood, but because wine makes the social commitments and large gatherings during this busy time of year much more tolerable.
Like my family, I always love a party. But if I have to hear one more question about when I’m getting married or what do I actually do for a living, I’ll take that plastic flask of well vodka that my cousin is hiding in their hoodie straight to the dome.
I realize this isn’t an uncommon experience. We all have that uncle who drinks too much and tells you how far he could throw a football in high school (it gets farther every year) or the aunty who wears too much perfume and forces you to try her overcooked and underseasoned dish.
I hate to be the one to break it to you, but if you’re reading this and don’t think you have a black sheep in your family, you’re probably it.
If you are indeed the black sheep, look to the Meunier grape for inspiration. The once maligned Meunier was formally known as “Pinot Meunier” because of its supposed genetic relationship to pinot noir.
“Meunier” is the French word for “miller” (a person who operates a mill to make flour). The leaves of the Meunier grape vine have a distinct white powdery sheen on its underside. Some reputable organizations have challenged such claims and are pushing to drop the “pinot” moniker as it can be construed as misleading, further underscoring the lack of respect the grape is given.
Although Meunier is a staple for many blends of Champagne and accounts for nearly one-third of the acreage in the area, it is usually treated as a workhorse (as it is easier to grow than pinot noir) used to add fruitiness or softness to the final product. Many producers are challenging that notion and choosing to feature the grapes as a lead.
Here are two fine examples of Meunier Champagne, just in time for your New Year’s celebrations:
Gaston Chiquet, ‘Tradition,’ Brut
This historic house is now eight generations old, but its most important claim to fame started in 1919 by two Chiquet brothers, who were noted as the first winemakers to keep the grapes that they farmed, turn it into bubbly and sell it themselves. We now know this style as “grower Champagnes” but before that, Champagne production was always supplemented by buying grapes from other farmers. This blend is consistently delicious, and its style is a perfect balance between the intense fruitiness of the Meunier grape and depth of bready, yeasty aromas brought on by aging for four years in cellars. It’s the perfect introduction to the Meunier grape.
Cost: Around $55/bottle.
Champagne Famille Moussé, ‘Eugene’ Blanc de Noirs, Extra Brut
A grower in Champagne since 1750, the current winemaker, Cédric, is responsible for redefining Meunier in the modern era. Around 80% of his organically farmed vineyards are planted to the variety, reaffirming his commitment to the grape and the land. This blend is 80% Meunier and 20% pinot noir, and is drawn from a perpetual blend dating back to 2003. This contributes to the wine’s complexity. It’s honeyed, candied, musky and savory all at once, with considerable body and power. Try his 100% Meunier bottlings if you can find them.
Cost: Around $72/bottle.
Chris Ramelb is an award-winning master sommelier, and director of education and restaurant sales manager of Southern Glazer’s Wine & Spirits of Hawaii. Follow him on Instagram (@masterisksomm).
