On Monday Nov. 25, there was a celebration of life for Albert Tsuru at the original Side Street Inn on Kona Street. Back in the ’90s when Colin Nishida opened Sid Street Inn, Albert was the manager. Whenever you saw Colin, Side Street Inn or Albert, you couldn’t help but think of the other two.
One person at the celebration got it right when he said aloud, “We all here have at least one thing in common with Albert. We all have called him at some point and time to ask him to get us in for a table at the last minute or on a crowded night.”
The room erupted with laughter as they all reminisced of their own memories with Albert. His hospitality was always warm, generous and welcoming, local style to da max that also mirrored Colin. It was a very nostalgic evening seeing a lot of familiar faces, coming to celebrate Albert’s life and remembering nights from a different time. I cannot recall the last time that Roy, Dean, Chuck and myself were there at the same time like long ago when it was a frequent thing.
Side Street Inn was a great hangout after work for a lot of chefs and folks in the industry. Some remember the original when it was half the size, and then along came Emme Tomimbang featuring it in one of her Emme’s Island Moments episodes. Colin got busier and took over the spot next door. He always said that all he wanted was a bar, not a restaurant, but it came to be a restaurant more than a bar, mostly because the food was so good. Families came to eat dinner. I remember Anthony Bourdain shooting a No Reservations scene with Colin at Side Street Inn. A whole bunch of local chefs and industry people came to be a part of that party that Colin threw that night.
When visitors came to town and asked to go to eat local food, Side Street Inn was always mentioned as one of the places to go and eat local food. Albert was always there, steadying the waitstaff and making sure everyone was taken care of.
Conrad Nonaka and I went often to Side Street Inn. Even though it wasn’t on the menu, Albert always brought us a plate of grilled dried cuttlefish. It stunk up the whole place but he knew we loved it, with shoyu mayonnaise of course. He always sat with us for “one drink” and to talk story, just like Colin used to before he passed. Albert was a great listener, not big on talking, but he would say enough to keep you talking, until the next drink gets plopped down in front of you. He was a behind-the-scenes kind of guy that was vital to the operation and helped make it happen every day. Albert, I know you’re having a Black Velvet drink with Colin on the other side, as we speak.
I will miss you, your presence and your heart, it just will not be the same for me when I go to Side Street Inn again. Rest in peace, bruddah.
Chef and restaurateur Alan Wong has wowed diners around the world for decades, and is known as one of the founders of Hawaii Regional Cuisine. Find his column in Crave every first Wednesday. Currently, Wong is dba Alan Wong’s Consulting Co.
